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514 valve lash adjustment intervals?
Any expert opinions as to the mileage interval for adjustment of mechanical lifters? I seem to get the impression from the real engine guys, that it is needed quite often? And also can anyone give any other pertinent info/advice on care of the mechanical roller cam system in my (arriving this spring) 514?
It is the current production Ford Racing motor, and I have to admit, the exact workings of the mechanical roller cam/lifter setup is not clear to me...is it similar to the mechanical Japanese motorcycle valve adjustments I have done in the past? (say like the old 750 Honda 4 cylinder motors?) As in getting it to TDC for each cylinder, then adjusting with a feeler gauge, etc...? If these are stupid questions, shoot me down :CRY: |
I know!, I know!
BIB,
As I was looking at this same engine, I checked. If you are going past 6000 rpm all the time, check all the time. If you stay under 6000 rpm, with normal "cobra street action", check after 500 miles, then you should be ok for every 2000 -3000 miles. Like an oil change. FYI, no biggy to adjust them. Great Asp :MECOOL: |
I have one of the new 514 Ford Crate Motors with the new Eagle Rods in a Superformance Cobra. The valves specs say set at .024 Hot. The problem is these heads cool so fast it is very difficult to consisently get them all set at .025
You can actually tighten them up which will do two things: 1. Quite the engine down a bit, lifters not rattling 2. Move your tork curve higher up in the RPM range With 598 ft lbs of tork this is probablly a good idea in a Cobra. I have mine set a .024 now but going to reset one or two at .022 then let the motor cool over night and check them dead cold. I think they will be about .018 cold and then set them all cold and they will all close. Depending on how much you drive or race the car will determine how often to reset them. Starting out check them after a couple hundred miles and see if they are out of adjustment. |
An important thing to remember about valve adjustment intervals is to inspect your valve-train. This is especally critical with roller cams. The high lift and quick opening and closing ramps on a mechanical roller cam make the valve springs work much harder. Inspect each valve spring and retainer when adjusting your valves. Also, be extra leery of a valve that needs more adjustment than the others. It is possible that the bearings in the roller lifter may be "going away". Major engine damage will result if a roller stops "rolling"on the cam lobe:CRY:.
--Mike |
Back in Black
Anybody that has a solid roller cam should pull the lifters to inspect the roller and needle bearings for wear every 3,000 to 5,000 miles or so. That is why it is not advisable to run a solid roller on the street. If one of the lifters ever lets go, you are looking at major damage to your engine (23 or so small needle bearings scatered throught out the engine). |
Thanks everyone
I will likely run the roller cam for a few years, continue to research the issue, and if the advice/heads-up I have heard is correct, I may switch to a hydraulic cam/lifter setup. Time will tell. My car will not be a daily driver, unlikely to see more than 3 to 5 K in any year, and in the winter, she will be stowed high and dry, with time to prep her for the next year.
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