Need help on a 429/460 build-up plan..
 

Its nice to finally find a forum that has just 429/460 stuff!

I have a project car that I want to put a 460 in. At this point I am unsure if I want to stroke it, if I do it will be a 514, nothing major.

I want to use the new FMS SCJ alloy heads, edel brock Performer RPM or victor intake, Eagle rods and JE pistons. I am unsure how much the stock crank can take if prepared correctly as I want to hit 6500RPM on occasion. If its a no-go I will look at a scat crank.

Here is where things get real pricey. I want to go with EFI plumbed into the intake with a 850CFM TB and use the EEC-V so that I can use availble tuners/laptop programs.

I am also trying to find makers of alloy engine blocks. Basically I want insane TQ in a package that weighs less than a 302 SB and back it up with a T-56 6sp.

I figure the awsome low end TQ, EFI, and an ultra low 6th gear should net me some decent milage while getting acceleration that should shoot your eyes to the back of your head.

So...if anyone knows and makers of 460 alloy blocks or makers of nodular iron or forged cranks please give me a shout out here!

Thanks,
Bryan

Bryan - I think the reason you have not got any replies is you didn't say if your project car was a Cobra or not. 385's and a Cobra have issues that need to be dealt with, and to make matters worse, 385's fit differently in different Cobra makes.
As for parts and tech you might try the 385 forum at ;
www.network54.com/hide/forum/85220
cobrashock

Been there to but I want to get as many suggestions from people familiar with this engines as I can.

The engine will go in a 69 Mach 1

Thanks,
Bryan

Bryan, I was looking for a stock 460 to do a mild build up on and fornd a Lincoln really cheap. When I picked it up I found the guy had a 3 foor long print out from a Firestone dealer who did all his work..even changed headlights (some people cant even figure out how do use a screwdriver). Anyhow the engine was a reman, with 19k and about 6 oil changes. Hmmmm got me thinkin' the money I save not rebuilding it I can buy the SVO CJ heads (this was in '96).
Of course I got the crate motor C460 cam(.588/.614), roller t-chain and the Performer RPM intake. Whatever cheapo cast pistions and what ever quick slap together crank and recon'd rods the remanufacturers threw in were untouched by me. I had the intake port matched and some 'clean up' work done on the heads. In a 4300 lb (with driver) Galaxie I was clicking off 11.6-7s at 116+. Most of the time I shifted around 63-6500. My best times came when I took 1st to 6800 with second around 6500, but on more then a few occasions it saw 7 grand. About the worse thing that happened was it would throw the fan belt, every time like clock work when it hit 7200. :eek: Since your building this from the start for that kind of use I don't think a well prepped short block by a reputable shop would have any problem hitting 6500 on 'occasion'. I sold that engine with 10k miles on it and my buddy had no problem with it another several thousand untill he decided to pull it to go more radical.
For the weight, he took it to his shop, on a load beam (I believe he called it) scale, complete minus carb it weighed 518 pounds, thats not even 50 lbs more then an all iron 289/302.
I think you can still get the AR aluminum block through Ford Racing.

Bryan-

When you mention "alloy" block, I assume you want an aluminum block. Right? If so, http://www.racepartsdistribution.com/index.htm is the retailer for Ford aluminum blocks. The 429 Al block is pricey - $4800. But it does save weight.

Bore and stroke to 532 ci., add some Jon Kaase SCJ heads and a Crane Cams mechanical roller (.718 lift) and you will instantly make 850 HP

Bill

...and destroy the T56 :eek: :LOL:

You need to decide what you want. You ask about a cast crank in a 500ci stroker then mention an aluminum block???? And the T56 is a joke behind that as Tom Wells mentioned. If you look in my gallery you will see a 1050HP Ford wedge. The dyno pull was with a single Ruppert dominator we never made a pull with the injection. I don't think the numbers would have changed much. These motors make great horsepower with a mild combination. The problem is when you start turning RPM in these motors the block and crank often fall victim of the heavy rotating assy. If you want 800+ HP you need a good block,crank,light rods,light pistons,and quality valvetrain components. Just figure 20K+

69 Mustang? Not sure it will fit. Ford had to move the front shock towers to get the Boss and Super Cobra Jets (385) into the 70 Mustang. Hummmmmm. As for the engine build itself I'm reading mixed signals too.
Some general stuff though. 385's make power better than almost anything out there, when you drop the compression down to around 9 to 1. You "tune" 385's to your performance requirements with your head selection. Stock, Super Cobra Jet heads, cop car heads, Edelbrocks, Ford "A", "B", and "C" 's, Blue Thunder and Boss heads about run the gambit. As you step up to each performance head in level, the engine build usially gets a bit wilder and the result is usially a more peak power engine. Stroking 385's when all else is equal, moves the power band down and raises top end torque numbers.
Two bolt main blocks are good for about 800 horsepower when using studs and a main girdle, dependent on casting numbers. Four bolt main blocks (stock type) are only good for about 50 or 75 more horsepower than the 2 bolt blocks. After market 4 bolt caps will make a 2 bolt block stronger than a factory 4 bolt block but you should use a " DOVE " 2 bolt block for them.
SVT blocks are the strongest blocks out there, both on the mains and the cam webbing. A aluminum short deck block weighs exactly the same as a stock iron "DIVE" block with iron "DOVE" blocks weighing about 20 more pounds. The lightest iron 460 block is a late model truck block and some of the 80's truck blocks had 4 bolt mains. Tall deck aluminum SVT blocks are heavier than all stock factory iron blocks with the iron SVT blocks packing the most lead.
Keep in mind that the factory crate motors are taking stock 460 regirgitated stuff (nothing special) and getting 500+ horsepower numbers with them, and even more torque, and you can see that serious power can be make using this engine. As with all engines your parts combo weighs into the equation, so I would look up some one local with experience that has built these engines.
cobrashock: :3DSMILE: :3DSMILE:

Hey I have a 460 with a stock bottem end, Moroso 10 qt pan, Edelbrock Aluminium 6066 series heads, Edelbrock Aluminium Performer RPM Intake, Edelbrock 850cfm Carb, and a ProComp 4 gear-gear drive. This engine puts out around 850 HP and 750 lbs of tq. Send a email if any questions.

racerp419- If your racing that engine and it does indeed put out those numbers then I would say You are pushing it on the bottom end. You didn't say what block you are using either, or the weight of the car. Most unmodified bottom ends will take that kind of power for a while, then it's expensive smoke.
Studs and a Blue Thunder steel main girdle are cheap. USE THEM I would. BTW- welcome to the club!
:) :)
cobrashock

i use 2 bolt dove blocks a lot for customers engines,u can tell w the main caps when we make over or around 800 hp the caps tend to walk,if u want a cheap combo start w/a 88 truck 460 ,they have scj rods,and flat top pistions, use dove heads, we have thousands of mile on off set ground 2yab cranks,and run 14 to one,(sometimes more) comp.the only time the guys have problems is when in the fall i take them apart if they have had a lot of detanation it will sometimes crack the crank,2 cranks in ten years out of a lot of engines,now one that makes 900 hp has been thru a crank a year,in the last 2 years,but hes has a very tight buget, and next year will change his combo all togather

ps just a note........... we cracked our 4.750 crank (sonny b)
this year,, it detanatied real hard, (only 2 times)

wboss429 - I'd love to see the combo. that you used on that 4.75 motor and esp. the block/blockwork. There are a couple of guys around here (friends) that I know that build their iron the way you describe things. Using 385's in Cobras is a different way of thinking, away from the drag crowd. Most of these guys don't tear down a motor seasonally for a refresh , and usially spend the bucks to get things right. (at least initially anyhow)
Not to say that the junkyard approach doesn't work though,,,,,,,,,,
Welcome to the club.
cobrashock