Super CJ blues
 

Hello 385 fans:

I have been running a 429SCJ for three years. It has been modified somewhat. This is the deal:
D0VE-A 4-bolt block
SCJ rods
2YAB 3,85" crank
D0OE SCJ rods
D0OE-R heads
Wiseco flat top pistons for a cr. close to what, 11.0 and 466CID
Crane 214 / 222 535 / 565 SAE8620 Steel Roller cam
Weiand Stealth 8021 SCJ intake
Holley 3310 out of the box
Hooker 1 7/8 primary and 3,5" collectors
MSD pro-billet set at 34° total and 12 initial
MSD Digital 6 box
Crane teflon coated springs, Crane titanium retainers 10°, Crane Gold race rockers and roller lifters to go with the cam.

The engine runs smoothly and starts right up. I am a little disappointed with its get up power and high range.

If I hold the converter and launch it hard, it will burn rubber for a long time, but a dry get up and go is a little sleepy, and the torque just is not availalble until after around 2800 rpm.

Any suggestions?

Gears. What differential are you running? a 4 OR 5 speed? What
tire size? All these things affect 'launch', and the CJ heads need rpm to develop power. A big improvement can be made in the CJ/SCJ heads by raising the floor of the exhaust port to improve flow at low rpm. Leaving the engine in the car, a gearset will give you the best bang for the buck difference in feel..just dont go crazy and end up turning 4000 rpm at 60! Also, please explain what you mean by 'hi range'...I presume you mean that the motor is not developing enough power in the upper rpm ranges? If so, check to make sure that your air cleaner is not choking the motor at this range....a common mistake in a Cobra. Also, check to make sure that the motor is getting enough fuel. The last 750
cfm I got from Holley had 62 jets (!) in the primary and 64's in the 2ndary. These are too small for a hi rpm big block.

In order;
Carb. tuning/breather
Rear Gears
Headwork
.65 lift roller
2or 3 degree advancing of the cam you have now/ changing to 1.6 rockers would help to.
A smaller converter with a lower stall
I too am a bit confused, by what you mean high range?
cobrashock

385 Friends:

Sorry about the info I missed out on: The gears are 3.50 w. a Detroit Locker. C-6 worked to the max by a Ford professional. The car is a ´70 Spoiler.

This is how it works: The feel from the engine is hard to describe, but please do not get me wrong: It puts out a LOT of power. I know how the enormous ports and valves make this engine different from the N-code engine of the same era. It really kisks in hard when it passes 2500 rpms and thereafter it pulls very hard up to around 4.800, where there is a definite flat spot.

I did remove the EGR bosses from the roof of the exhaust ports and very, very gently smoothed the area around the valve stem. I did not touch the floors of the ports at all. I know what that does to these engines.

Still, I seems somehow unwilling to jump from the start when ordered to. It seems almost like it pushes the throttle back and will not get up and go unless wound up to the maximum pre-stall on the stock converter.

I also figured that the 3310 would be lean on this engine, after all it is considerably larger than the Chevy it was originally built for, but still, is this really such an issue that I need to go to a Barry Grant or a Demon carb and a 10-11 inch converter on an engine that idles smoother than the standard original Lincoln 460?

Any thoughts?

Camshaft, camshaft, camshaft.
385's thrive on lift. More so than any engine I can think of other than a Hemi. That flat spot you describe sounds like you are either running out of cam on the big end or the engine is leaning out. I would first fatten up the jetting (and bleeds) of the carb you have now, before changing to another carb. You will have to play with the jetting, etc. anyway with any new carb.
If it still runs the same way same way the next thing to do is the cam. You will be quite surprised that to find, I'd bet, that a .62 or .63 lift bumpstick will give you more bottom end torque as well as a much better high end charge.
It also sounds to me like you've got a sluggish converter. It always amazes me that folks expect a 30 year old converter to perform like a new one. Those things do wear out you know. Sounds like the staiter(sp?) rings may be worn in your stock converter. And most tranny shops don't replace those rings when they split a converter open for a "so called" rebuild either.
A slightly smaller new performance converter will give you more torque multiplcation on the bottom end too, over the stock converter. We've gone somewhere else since the 70's on converter designs you know. I would also change the tranny fluid to a high performance fluid such as Valvolene high milage fluid or better. And yes, you need more gear too. Good luck.
cobrashock

U NEED AT LEAST A 10'' CONVERTER AT 3000 TO 3500 STALL
THE SMALLEST CARB WE USE ON A STOCK SCJ OR SC IS A 850,STICK OR AUTO, AND THATS BECAUSE OF RULES, WE RUN 8896 DOM'S 1050 CFM'S ON EVERTHING ELSE ,PLUS SCJ'S DONT MAKE REAL POWER TILL 3000 RPM ANYWAY,PUT A 370 GEAR IN IT W THIS CONVERTER AND W/ THE RIGHT CURVE IN THE DIST U WONT BELIVE THE POWER,MY 71 SPOILER RAN 12 80'S MY 71 RAN 1300S,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,350 GEAR AND 370 GEAR, 1280 W/456 GEAR,

Mr. Boss and Ron:

I have ordered a 4.30 : 1 gear. Will also install a line lock along with the 10" converter. The numbers you give, really help. I have been hesitant to run the car at the track. Have been asked why. i will not race it without making sure that my powder is dry. Will not damage the cars´ reputation with 13 second runs. I have used various Holleys on thses engines over the years. The 850 makes the best power overall, but the greatest throttle response came from a 750 DP.

I have one final question: Crane offered me two special grind solid 8620 steel roller cams for this engine. I took the cooler of the two, (214/222-,535/,565 at 1,7 ratio, but I wonder if I should order the other one. Its numbers are:

232° I / 240° E ,578 I / 598 E. How lopey will it become with this stick and what is the difference in power?

Thanks again.

u r losing lift w 1.7 rockers,

if it made more power w the 750
id bet money ur dist is off, what kind of total timing do u have in it and at what rpm ?

Lima 385 - I think I would have went the more radical bumpstick but there are several questions that need to be asked.
Converter- what stall? And don't forget to use a trans. cooler, esp. for the street. Your stall should not be so high that it slips in high gear going down the road. The 430 gear is the "just right" ratio with a light converter IMO. If you are on the street much a hyd. roller lifter is the right choice with those cams I would think. Don't forget you can "tune" each runner with a 1.6 rocker if need be, so clearance the pistons for a 1.5 rockers when you are there.
As for hurting the reputation of the car, you can't. Remember, your opponent is racing Lima385, not Ford. So just get out there and do it. Those 13's will soon get to the 12's and maybe to the 11's with the right effort. Another thing, keep records of everything you've done. I keep a logbook for everything including timeslips, and it's amazing how much I have to go back to it. And remember this; (contrary to what most people think) if you are racing, you are going to loose, A LOT! But for those few time you do win, boy is it all worth it. So relax and enjoy the ride.
cobrashock