Timing question
 

Guys, I have my battery in the trunk and want to make sure I don't screw up my timing light connections. Is it okay to run the timing light off the positive and neg. connections to the coil? If not and/or you have a better suggestion please shoot it in.

Thanks,
Josh

How about the hot side of the starter and a good engine ground?

I figured that would be best but the starter is not the easiest thing to reach.

Josh

run it off the hot side of the cylanoid (sp?)

If the starter solenoid is visible, connect the positive lead of you're light to the the battery positive side. Anywhere on the engine (assuming it's grounded) would be suitable for the negative lead. Then attach thr timing light connection to the no. 1 spark plug wire. 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, counterclockwise... no. 1 being the spark plug farthest forward.

Connect it to the battery side of the altenator

Use the B+ power output from the alternator if itis accessible...

how much timing ?
 

Great advise about the alt. B+ or the starter battery side of sol. as hook up point for timing light. .
The other question I get at my shop all the time is how much timing and how do I set it up. The answer I give is put all the initial lead you can but limit total ( initial + mechanical ) to no more than 39 degrees. This answer is for non injected or computer controled cars. I use an inductive type light for ease with a dial to offset to zero to set up the distrib. in the car. This light is a must if damper is not marked beyond 15 or so degrees. You can use masking tape and put a temporary 20 or so degrees more on the damper if needed. A 360 degree tape is even better though.
If running much of a cam and a little higher C/R the engine wants about 15 to 20 degrees initial lead and then the delta of initial to total of 39 degrees. THIS MAY cause motor to turn over a bit slow when starting hot but just pump pedal 1 time before you hit key to make starting easy when hot.
Keep increasing initial lead until it pings under hard load (lug motor in a higher gear and excelerate from a low RPM) Once you find where it pings then stop and remove 2 degrees at a time until pinging stops, at this point remove 2 more degrees as your ideal initial lead setting. Subtract this number from 39 and that is amount of mechanical timing you need in the distrib. Mechanical is limited with spring tention and fine tuned by the advance fly weights.

Until I hear it "ping"? I couldn't hear it ping even if I did take out my ear plugs. :D

Ernie ,
I'm betting any little thing not JUST right would raise a flag or 2 with you on your toys but a simple knock sensor is 1 answer. The turbo or blower boys all live and die by this device. For just a few bucks you can build a devise to install full time or keep in tool box for the next problem child. Here is a link to all info needed to build this text box. You guys running a late model block already have one or at least the mounting hole. I made a test sensor by tapping down center of a 3/8 stud to threads of sensor I had kicking around.
A dyno with gas analizer is best but this works great and timing is most overlooked ADDER on most cars. I squeeze every bit I can get out of engines and this is a freeby. I run about 16 + degrees initial lead or timing on everything and then limit mechanical advance to no more than about 38 or so.
http://www.california.com/~eagle/knock.html

Jeff, those (EKEs) work very well, I had a system installed on a '92 Supra aftermarket turbo setup running 12-14 lbs of boost on pump gas. I couldn't open the link to the Caspro unit and couldn't find them in a google search...any info on where to get a unit?
BTW, your advice on how to set up the distributor advance was very good if (as Ernie noted) you can hear the pinging. I was getting a little detonation on a chassis dyno run a couple of weeks ago, but you couldn't hear it, it was indicated from the intermittant puffs of black smoke out both pipes...was running a bit lean with too much advance for the jetting.

http://www.california.com/~eagle/knock.html#EKE
Ken,
Try this address above. I use ECM interface from the Holley injectionI am running for real time retard or box for detection and tuning