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-   -   Got 514 problems! (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/429-460-engine-talk/70812-got-514-problems.html)

Bob Marshall 07-11-2006 07:02 PM

Got 514 problems
 
514's need lots of air....and clean air. I have two twist in oil breathers and a PVC that is NOT from a hot rod shop....those are NOT sufficient for the crankcase to breathe. Any questions send me an e-mail rwm29@comcast.net
I've had mine for 5 years and no troubles.....626hp and still going strong.

ByronRACE 07-12-2006 11:43 AM

PCV + Breathers
 
So if you're running a PCV with an open crankcase, how did you tune around the vacuum leak?

With a PCV, the air path would the through the breathers, through the crankcase, through the PCV, and into the carb...which is a vacuum leak. That air would not flow past the carb venturis and fuel wouldn't be metered for it...which should cause a lean condition most noticable at idle and light throttle.

Did you just richen idle fuel to compensate? Any weird off-idle stumble problems?

Back in Black 07-12-2006 12:36 PM

Here's the latest:

Finally found a shop that could do the job right.. there's nothing wrong with my engine!

I had initially taken it to Blood Enterprises in Auburn, WA but the result was:

1) Mr Blood could not get it tuned.. suspect he does not really know much about this issue and just wanted to rid himself of the dilemna

2) My windshield chrome trim has two nice scratches in it

3) Someone at Blood used my chrome front hoop bumper to pull on to move the car (a BIG no-no) and pulled the support tube out of the socket receiver. Fixing that today

4) Because he told me the engine was "hurt" I paid $240 to truck it to my buddy's shop where we discovered the problem was operator error at Blood

5) Paid Mr Blood way too much for very little result!

I finally took it to a really great local shop: Horsepower Connection in Olympia/Thurston County.
http://www.horsepowerconnection.com/
Brian is a great guy and very competent. He got it going with a complete reprogramming, reattaching the PCV valve and some adjustments and 3 hours on the dyno. Far less cost than Blood, to boot.
Must replace my hokey stock throttle cable bracket so I'll be going back there for a little final work when the part comes in, but I drove her home last night and she's running great with the EFI.. finally!!! :cool:

Back in Black 07-12-2006 12:50 PM

PS: Advice on an extra intake breather noted and if I have problems I will do this but during the full on dyno pulls there was zero oil emitted with the PCV properly attached. I suspect as the engine breaks in a gets a few K miles any potential existing problem will vanish

I also want to give a pat on the back to Cope Brothers engine shop in Tacoma, rebuilders of my engine. They did a superb job for a very reasonable price

scott coyle 07-12-2006 02:11 PM

BIB,

Throw that PCV away. It will contaminate the mixture. My 12 to 1, 670 hp 358 ci motor has tons of crank case preasure. I have dash 12 lines running off of each air cleaner to a seperate tank with 2 large breathers. Otherwise, I would have oil everywhere. I thought I had blow-by at first, but no it is just a lot of hp which creates pressure.

Scott

ByronRACE 07-12-2006 02:16 PM

clarification...
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Back in Black
PS: Advice on an extra intake breather noted and if I have problems I will do this but during the full on dyno pulls there was zero oil emitted with the PCV properly attached. I suspect as the engine breaks in a gets a few K miles any potential existing problem will vanish

I also want to give a pat on the back to Cope Brothers engine shop in Tacoma, rebuilders of my engine. They did a superb job for a very reasonable price

Not knowing exactly what advice you're referring to, let me just clarify that my comment regarding the vacuum leak applies ONLY to carbureted engines. In your case, assuming you're using a speed density or alpha-n EFI system without a MAF...there is no problem letting air leak in to the vacuum side of the manifold as long as it's not so much that it creates an idle speed problem.

And, congratulations on getting it running well!

Back in Black 07-12-2006 06:50 PM

MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor?) included in the Holley package and thanks for the congrats.. it's raining today (this is the PNW!) but tommorrow she'll prowl the streets again!

ByronRACE 07-12-2006 09:16 PM

I'm not clear...
 
I'm not clear on your response, but if your system has no mass air sensor measuring the air entering the engine, you don't have an issue with a potential PCV vac leak. The problem stems from allowing unmetered air to enter the PCV. Any unmetered air is air the processor doesn't know about...resulting in lean mixtures on mass-air systems.

Back in Black 07-12-2006 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ByronRACE
I'm not clear on your response, but if your system has no mass air sensor measuring the air entering the engine, you don't have an issue with a potential PCV vac leak. The problem stems from allowing unmetered air to enter the PCV. Any unmetered air is air the processor doesn't know about...resulting in lean mixtures on mass-air systems.

To clarify, the problem was with "Blood Enterprises" in Auburn, WA , and not with the MAS or any other sensor or engine part...! It's operating fine now that a competent mechanic got his hands on the car!

Dominik 07-13-2006 12:11 AM

good morning,

I once had a rebuild engine burning oil. At idle already there was plenty of blow-by past the rings exiting the sidepipes.

I advanced ignition at idle plenty (from 4 deg! to 20 deg) and it improved.

it appears that the too late ignition advance heated the top of the pistons up extremely causing the oil underneath to "cook" and move past the rings.

possible?

dominik

Jerry Clayton 07-13-2006 07:14 AM

Dominik
More likely is that the oily rich mixture burns slower and tha advanced timing lit it off in time to burn in the engine, not the pipes

Jerry

Back in Black 07-13-2006 08:46 AM

I really don't know why it looked like oil smoke before but there's virtually no smoke now that it's programmed properly, and the plugs looked OK and dry (just a little rich because the first shop had the ECU improperly programmed) when we checked the plugs after the distributor was replaced and timed properly. Not running rich or lean now, just perfect. All's well that ends well ;)


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