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Definitely hire someone to inspect it if you really want to bid. Listen to the experts here and heed their advice IMHO.
Traveling to many places right now sucks and logistics can be different by country, State, county or city. We are in the market to buy a house but can’t travel to places we want to look due to 14 day quarantines. I understand the reasons for them and have no issues with them in place, just makes certain things really tough right now. |
the car would be titled in draper utah which conveniently enough is about 20 miles from Kirkham motors. i guess the risk/reward would depend on the out lay at the auction. everything perfect this is about a 130-150k car. if auction price is 100-115k there's room for tuning in there. if motor or tranny is not what is represented then i'm pooched.
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This car could be a good deal at the lower end of the price range. There's simply too many unknowns. The fact that it is undriven is scary. Sure, I can imagine someone thinking this is a collector item and just parking it to look at it. But the history of the builder seems to be hit and miss, so you could be getting into a hornets nest.
I'd call it a crap shoot rather than a smokin' deal good thing. |
it definitely is a crap shoot. i would like to find out who the owner is, not to circumvent mecums but just to get the history. i was actually looking for an ACR Extreme and then this thing popped up. cobra has always been on my wish list, but they all have such individual builds with little continuity they are always a complicated process to buy. i in no way view these as investment cars BTW
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The same is true of replicas - they are not investments. However, the reality is that some hold their value against current products. Shelby CSX, Kirkham and to some degree, properly built Superformances while they don't appreciate, do hold their value. They'll never be more valuable than a new one but you can buy it, drive it for 5 years and sell it for the same value. That's only happened to me with three vehicles: The Cobra (which I sold for a wash), the Ford GT (in essence a wash), and believe it or not, a 1995 Case 1845C which i used for 10 years and sold for the same as I bought it. |
agreed, nothing that wasn't limited production will increase in value. cars, no cars are a good financial investment. buy them for fun and expect to take a bath. for me i usually don't sell i just expand the garage.
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I know for a fact if that roller is straight (not wrecked) its worth $100k, if you can get that car for at or less than $110k I would buy it. Every one here is right about the motor being the wild card, but looking at the photos the car looks pretty good to me (except the drivers side exhaust pipe is going up hill). If you can get that car for $110k and the motor is in good shape than you got a great deal. If the motor is shot then maybe you paid $10k too much, but you need to remember the cost of the transmission, clutch, drive shaft, bell housing... etc. is around $4k maybe more if you include installation. The shelby signature alone is priceless, lets not forget that!! My car is CSX 6079 and carroll did not sign mine because this is just when he was getting sick around end of 2011. Worst case you will need to pull the motor and re-build it, maybe... another thing that bothers me is there is no photos of the under side oft the car. To some up if you can get that car for at or less than $110k do it. I would. but its a gamble...good luck.
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/flash012.JPG |
I'm not as enamored with ERA as some of you are.
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Also included with the car are engine assembly photos and dyno sheets. i agree that lack of underside photos is not good, but with the interior and exterior being in the shape it is in one would have to assume the car has been garaged and covered the entire time. not knowing the history and not knowing WHY the single owner has never driven this car is driving me crazy. the engine bay looks complete i can see nothing missing, obviously that doesn't tell me if there are even pistons in the block or not. a mecum rep which i will be bidding over the phone with is supposed to call the day of the auction in advance and will do a walk around and start up with me on the phone. i am thinking if it runs then there can only be relatively small fixable things wrong with it. the nice thing about carbs vs FI is they are cheap to fix or replace. again i am not looking at this as an investment and i am not worried about resale. i am wanting a really cool car by cobra owners standards that doesn't end up being another 40k beyond buying. there is an additional 12.5% commission paid to mecums on the sale price.
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i would also like to thank all of you for taking the time to respond to this thread. it speaks volumes as to the support and comradery around cobra owners.
thank you |
sorry one more question, top loader vs tremec. most of these cars for sale are 5sp. i know the top loader for originality but driveability?
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Alright, life is short. Cut 'em a check, throw some salt over your shoulder and cross your fingers. If something's sour on it then you can fix it. Fixing these cars is half the fun... usually,:cool:
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"i would like to find out who the owner is"
Brando Eaton? |
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Being a four speed (with 1:1 top gear), you won't want too short a final drive ratio if you do a lot of highway driving. Cheers, Glen |
i believe the rear end is 3.3. i have a 70 challenger with a 4sp and highway has never been an issue, possibly because it has a 10 gallon tank and gets 6 miles to the gallon so i'm never actually on the highway for very long.
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From my understanding, most CSX's came with 3.54 rear gears, although you could have custom gears ordered. Whether it's a toploader, or a tremec, you will be OK. Toploader is fine for driving, with the 3.54's, unless you are planning on using it as your everyday work vehicle, driving 30,000 miles year, traveling. It will be the same as your challenger. |
i was or still am looking for an ACR extreme when this cobra came up. if after the 18th this cobra doesn't happen it's back to the viper search for me.
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