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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 11-28-2006, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luthersnake
I got my engine(turn-key) with more hp complete from Engine Factory for $2k more with a warrenty and support. You have seen it (DD in Alpharetta).
That's certainly food for thought. While the idea of saving $3,000 sounds good in theory, it's not like we're talking about a trivial part of the project. This is the very heart of the beast, so it needs to be right.

I've seen the Engine Factory's site, and I'm familiar with the engine I think you bought (the 400HP-351W which currently goes for just under $7,000).

I also saw this engine on badasscars.com:
400HP to 450HP 351W Street Beast: Fully prepped and machined "tall deck" 351W block fitted with ARP main bolts andʮew HD cam, main and rod bearings, Reground and polished 351W crank with chamferred oil holes, forged 5140 connecting rods with ARP Wave Loc bolts, Fully machined KB "H" series pistons, moly rings, custom performance cam & lifters, double roller timing assembly, aluminum Edelbrock RPM heads and port matched Torker II intake manifold, new Holley 750 carb, ARP head bolts, aluminum roller rockers, chrome moly push rods, HD oil pump and hard steel drive shaft and new pick-up screen, new nodular iron harmonic balancer. Engine is assembled with stainless steel bolts and is fully balanced. This engine is WAY more powerful, MUCH better built and LESS expensive than the 385HP SVO engine Ford offers. What more could you want? Great for Mustangs, street rods and boats! $5,899.

Anyone familiar with this outfit? Not sure I could say I got my engine from "BadAssCars-dot-com" without chuckling a little...
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:13 PM
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Paul;

I have seen this same motor in a number of track and street cars and I think they are a very good motor.........

Now with that said, I would definetly have to inspect the engine and check a few things before buying any engine that has been "sitting" for five years......I have seen new engines "freeze" in as little as 2 years.....I would first give each cylinder a good sqirt of WD-40 or even motor oil and then see if you can turn the engine over by hand, I would also pull the valve covers and watch the valves/rocker arms while doing so to see in any valves are stuck as well and the lifters..........if that works out, it would not be a bad idea to pull the distributor, connect an oil pressure gauge to the motor and turn the oil pump with a drill and see what kind of oil pressure it will produce all the while making sure it is getting oil to the lifters and top side of the motor............

If all that checks out, you should be o-k..........

David
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