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-   -   Oil Cooler Disconnection (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/100451-oil-cooler-disconnection.html)

rob frink 10-26-2009 09:01 AM
.............

Blas 10-26-2009 09:54 AM
Hey Rob,
Still a beautiful piece....

SKINNEDR 10-26-2009 10:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBarchetta (Post 995769)
I just checked my gallery and must have deleted a recent pic of my Canton thermostat set-up. I think you can still see it in one of the engine pics.

But just to help you (and others) out, I just snapped these pics of the bridge and how it would attach.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/SPF_002.jpg

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/SPF_001.jpg

And no one give me any crap for the oil residue on the one fitting...has been cleaned and fixed! :D

-Dean
If I were to look for those type of hoses with the color connectors, how would I describe it? Is there a technical name for those hoses w/ their colored connectors?
Thanks in advance for your reply..
Dex..

RedBarchetta 10-26-2009 11:23 AM
Dex, they are "AN" (Air Force Navy) fittings. Mine are from Aeroquip, but Russell and Earl's also sell comparable (Aeroquip is arguably the better of the three, hence you pay more for them). Summit Racing and Jeg's are the most popular mail-order houses for these, but any local speed shop worth their salt carries them, too.

-Dean

Gunner 10-26-2009 11:23 AM
Aircraft fittings, AN fittings, braided hose and fittings.

All of the race shops carry them; shop around. JEGS seems to have the best prices. They are expensive. (You're looking at about $60-70 for the fittings on RB's, not counting the foot of hose.) You can get them in various colors - the traditional red/blue, black, stainless or clear anodized, sometimes in fancy anodized colors.

I have a sketch of a less expensive bypass, but it's meant for emergency use and probably isn't quite pretty enough for everyday use. In short:
  • Two right-angle AN fittings, sized to match your oil cooler line size (-AN10 or -AN12, most likely). The second fitting on each should be NPT 1/2 or 3/4.
  • Two NPT female unions to match the above size. You can use hardware-store iron or more expensive AN parts.
  • Iron pipe, length to suit the spread of your cooler fittings, threaded both ends.
Assemble the whole thing and you have a bypass just like RB's, not as pretty but for about $40 in parts total. I plan to slip a length of heat-shrink tubing over the whole thing and shrink it on to provide abrasion resistance at least halfway over the unions.

Two AN caps to cap off your cooler neatly, a matching AN wrench, a couple of big wire ties to secure the bypass in place, and you have a busted oil cooler fix-it kit.

Gunner 10-26-2009 11:25 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBarchetta (Post 995987)
Dex, they are "AN" (Air Force Navy) fittings. Mine are from Aeroquip, but Russell and Earl's also sell comparable (Aeroquip is arguably the better of the three, hence you pay more for them).
Aeroquips are more expensive because they typically come certified for real aircraft use - Earl's and the others are not. Other than for ooooh value, any quality maker is just fine for street use.

A couple of years ago, an air maintenance house was being liquidated and they had a huge supply of Aeroquip fittings for which they'd lost (or didn't care to maintain) the certification chain. The fittings were going on eBay for absurdly low prices. Wish I'd had a few hundred to invest, but there are SO many fittings it's almost impossible to stock up for personal use...

SKINNEDR 10-26-2009 12:16 PM
Please help me understand something.
If I purchase the hose and the fittings separately, how do I connect the fiitings to the hose? From what I see the these hoses can be purchased in any length without any thing on the ends. There is a female connection for the hose end, how do you get a close fit (leak free connection) with that?
Help me here to understand the basic...

Also, what kind of tools is basicly used to cut a braided hose?

Sorry ..Dex...

patrickt 10-26-2009 01:12 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINNEDR (Post 996003)
Help me here to understand the basic...

Also, what kind of tools is basicly used to cut a braided hose?
It is pretty easy to do with your Dremel tool, tape, and AN wrenches (not vise grips). A piece of advice, do your cutting away from your car. Click here for some nice shots on how easy it is to do: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=561081

or this one: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...-fittings.html

and this one is very nice as well: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ings/index.php

fastd 10-26-2009 01:34 PM
I am wondering as to how you use guys use the oil cooler diverter value from beaumont... I mean, when it is cold outside, you shut off flow to the cooler? Or do you start the car with it open, let it heat up and then shut it off before you start driving? Or do you go the whole winter with it shut off? Do you worry about sludging up the works past the valve?

Blas 10-26-2009 01:47 PM
Thats the nice thing about Rob's design.. You can regulate the flow through it from wide open to a slipstream or just off...therefor you can if you choose, have a minimal flow through cooler to prevent any buildup inside...of just have a partial flow on cooler days, or wide open at the track...

Ant 10-26-2009 02:25 PM
Oil Cooler Disconnection
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastd (Post 995778)
Oh, I see. The bridge just bypasses the oil cooler...

What do you think about the idea of using shut off values at the other end of the lines, i.e. right off of the oil filter housing?
Another way is to fit a double male fitting and joint the lines down in the engine bay tie up and nobody is the wiser, but it doesnt really matter what people think anyway. I am using a Canton T/stat which I think is a better way to go, because it will remain closed for most of your driving, and you dont have to change lines which can introduce contamination into the oil system.

If I was just street driving I wouldnt bother with a cooler at all, I even thought of not having a cooler on this car because of all alloy engine etc but that might be ok on a cool day at the track............!

Rob,

Have you considered a pump with more capacity, of course the downside to that is hp loss, I have just purchased and fitted a higher volume pressure side dry sump pump for my car and geared it down so it just maintains oil pressure at max rpm!

RedBarchetta 10-26-2009 02:56 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ant (Post 996038)
Another way is to fit a double male fitting and joint the lines down in the engine bay tie up and nobody is the wiser, but it doesnt really matter what people think anyway.
Ant, good point. My little invention ( :LOL: ) is adaptable at my Canton thermostat as well (since I'm using the same 90's there, too). I placed it in front of the cooler lines more so for effect. Either way, it's a nice band-aid if I ever need it to limp home. An expensive band-aid, but a good arrow to have in the quiver.

-Dean

lineslinger 10-26-2009 03:05 PM
Is there a reason you couldn't put a sandwich style thermostat of this configuration in line? This one only opens (to the cooler) if the oil temp. exceeds 220 degrees

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/143_4324.JPG

rob frink 10-26-2009 03:13 PM
.............

rob frink 10-26-2009 03:24 PM
.............

RedBarchetta 10-26-2009 03:47 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lineslinger (Post 996047)
Is there a reason you couldn't put a sandwich style thermostat of this configuration in line? This one only opens (to the cooler) if the oil temp. exceeds 220 degrees.
Aside from blowing 3/4 qt of cold oil (from the cooler and lines) into a hot engine, I can't think of any reason not to do that. :eek: :LOL:

That's the beauty of either Rob's design or the Canton T-stat...both have the ability to trickle oil thru the cooler at all times so the above scenario never occurs (the Canton flows 90/10 until ~210*).

-Dean

lineslinger 10-26-2009 04:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBarchetta (Post 996055)
Aside from blowing 3/4 qt of cold oil (from the cooler and lines) into a hot engine, I can't think of any reason not to do that. :eek: :LOL:

That's the beauty of either Rob's design or the Canton T-stat...both have the ability to trickle oil thru the cooler at all times so the above scenario never occurs (the Canton flows 90/10 until ~210*).

-Dean
Believe it or not I had the same thought before installing it.:eek:

The Mocal stat' shown in the photo never completely closes but allows operating temp. engine oil to circulate on a constant but restricted volume so you don't have a cold charge just sitting stagnant in the lines and cooler.

This protects against any sudden or radical temperature contrasts being introduced when it's slow open design is actuated.

Grubby 10-26-2009 05:17 PM
Rob,
What is the brand and part number of the diverter? It looks promising.

John

fastd 10-27-2009 06:46 AM
rob frink,

Have you tested the temperature increase/decrease when you have the flow on/off for the street?

rob frink 10-27-2009 07:17 AM
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