|
Wilwood balance bar slop
Now that I am waiting to receive my slave cylinder and plate from @ gcperf.com, I thought I would move on to fixing my crappy brake performance. I have wilwood 12.18 drilled and slotted in both front and rear. Both masters are 7/8". I have a wilwood forward swing triple master cylinder pedal assembly. One problem I found was the pushrods were threaded all the way in, so I back them out, the front being out further than the rear. Now comes the balance bar issue. That thing just slops around in there and really doesn't seem to be doing anything. I can adjust the threaded bolt over toward the front or back and it doesn't change anything. The problem is because of the slop, the right side (rear master)hangs all the way down causing the clevice to bind the pushrod. Any thoughts.
On another note, I don't have a ton of room in there to back the pushrods out because it extends the pedal decreasing leg room, minimal to begin with, and with the brake pedal extended it get in the way of the clutch. Would a floor mounted systme give me more room???? Wow that was a long post, hope you made it through without drowsiness. :LOL: |
you should have it ajusted so you have about 65 pecent of your braking going to your front brakes , or a little more just depend on the car and size brakes,do you have any pics.
|
SS
I have the exact same setup on my car with the exception of master cylinder size. I'm not sure your caliper piston sizes are the same as mine, but mine are the 12.18" Dynalite's. I changed my MC sizes to 5/8" front and 11/16" rear, since I couldn't get enough pressure with the original 3/4 F and 7/8 R setup. When you adjust the balance bar bolt, moving it from left to right or vice versa, you cant see anything move. It is moving a pivot point on the inside to change the bias from front to rear. If it is really sloppy, you can remove one of the nuts, screw the MC rod and rotate the clevis to tighten it up. Look at the pic here of the BB out of the pedal assy. http://www.wilwood.com/PedalList.aspx Brad W. |
2kwik4u,
I have the dynalites as well. I've been on wilwood's page before trying to figure this out, but could you explain a little bit more about how to tighten the balance bar assembly up. The bolt that runs through the middle is tight, but the whole thing moves. I've gone in and adjusted the MC rod lengths and balance bar but as you can see from my pics there is a ton of slop, notice the angle of the balance bar. I can move it without effort from one extreme to the other. Hopefully the pictures will help. On the pics, I made no adjustments between shots, just moved the balance bar assembly from one extreme to the other. Thanks http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...s/IMG_0899.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...s/IMG_0898.JPG |
SS
Back the m/c adjusting rod/push rod all the way out of the clevis on the drivers side. The clevis is threaded. Hold the nut on the end of the BB rod, and rotate the clevis clockwise and that should tighten up the slop. Then reattach the M/C rod. Brad W. |
Me try :JEKYLHYDE
|
How Dis Look?
Just think, I tried to trade my wife today for mrmustang's FFR on ebay. Then she goes and crawls under my dash to rethread the master cylinder. 5 weeks after a C-section to boot! :LOL:
Anyways take a look at the other pics. How does the balance bar look. Is it to far adjusted toward the front bias (center MC). Also previously the threads were not showing and I backed them out some. Thanks 2kwik4u for your help the slop has been dramaticly reduced but still there. I couldn't get the clevice any further moved. Now with a sore side/ribs I have to go give the Mrs a backrub for the help.:LOL: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...s/IMG_0907.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...s/IMG_0911.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...s/IMG_0913.JPG |
Balance bar clevises should have .10" clearance per side. Push rod length should be adjusted so that the balance bar rod is parallel with the pedal tube, when viewed from above (or below), with moderate pedal pressure applied. The bar should be loose with no pedal pressure applied. The important thing is that nothing binds with maximum pedal pressure applied. If the ends of the bar will still move up and down when the brake is applied then it probably isn't binding.
|
I like your ride
Quote:
|
I recently installed the Wilwood Remote brake bias adjuster on my pedal set up. I'm having fun adjusting the bias to my satisffction from the drivers seat. Seems to have improved the stopping performance.
Bill |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:00 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: