335's on Backdraft rear? Possible?
 

I'm thinking of moving up to 335's on the rear of my Backdraft with LSD.

Just plain tired of having to stay ahead of this thing trying to keep it straight on second gear run ups after about 4,200 rpm.

It's an easy catch, but you end up changing lanes.

And before you post, yes I have tried some different 315's (Sumitomo currently) and the rear gear is 3.1 with a TKO 600 RR, alignment/toe and corner weights are right on the money. It's somewhere between 450 and 500 at the wheels, depending on the fuel (mass flow proximity port injected, so it's a quick study via the computer).

This happens like clockwork at about 4,200 RPM and with the 3.1 rear gear, it has already built up a head of speed by that time, so it's exciting to say the least. But, actually dangerous and I need to solve this before someone gets hurts.

So, any 335 experience, especially related to a Backdraft's (#318) clearance issues? Any suggestions on tires that can hold this setup.

What is your PSI in the tires? I run in the low 20's in my 15" rears, wiith less HP than you have. Just a thought.

Wayne,

I don't know anyone running 335's on their Backdraft. you have enough room though. Are you going to widen the wheel as well? Your rear gear should be 3.23 LSD.

Bill

It can be done on the cars after 600 for sure. I don't think it will work on the cars before.

Get a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street drag radials in just about any size and the majority of your tire spin problems will go away.

I started with 325/50 15s and later went to 275/60 15s, both being 28 inches tall running a 3.73 rear gear. The 275/60 15s worked great and I'd go with those before the 325s if I did it again. For being on normal city roads they hook really good. They heat fast under load and stick quick. On normal driving around town they won't get hot enough to throw stones.

BFG radial TAs are a death wish.

I also had 17s with Yokoham A032R semi race tires. The problem with those is they need to get a real work out to be hot before the stick. The good news is they rarely get hot because they are a semi race tire so they don't throw stones. That might be part of the problem you have with your larger tires.

If a tire says temperature A that's not always the best news for a street rod because that means they take longer to heat to optimum temperature for their advertized traction A. Many tires end up cycled funny too and never work good. Some tires have diffrent composites of rubber to help that condition though.

Mickey Thompson ET Street drag radials are temperature C, but they stick quick when needed. They work through the entire tread too. Run 20 psi.

Tires
 

Have you considered the Nitto NT05's?

am

As as follow up to my tire question and thanks for all the replies. Some good info in those.

Just as a question only........Anyone running Goodyear F1's DS-G3 in the 315/35/17 size and if so, how is the straight line traction in 2nd and 3rd? This car will NEVER see the track so these are crusing cold tire, street traction questions only.

My Backdraft came with F1's on the front (rears where changed out before I took over) and I suppose I could just match up the rears, if they are work well. Really don't care for the overall looks of the pattern, but thought I might ask. And yes, I know the price is a choker in that size.

Ditch the Sumi's.

Had them and they are like driving on ice.

Switched to the Kumho ECSTA XS 315's and they are much stickier.

Have you tried the Nitto 315 drag radials in the rear? I love 'em.

The Brand New NT05R's are fantastic
 

Looks like you have a pre 600 series, so according to the dealers comments you can't fit them. The new Nitto's,the NT05R drag radials (not the NT05) are terrific. Not gonna get a lot of miles out of them, but they are very sticky. I dropped a full second off my E.T. at the track with just the tire swap. I still use them on the street, I have the 17's so the low profile sidewall is probably better than 15's. You may not be able to autocross them, but I feel a lot safer under acceleration. They don't break free near as much and stick better than my Goodyear Eagle F1's did.

Best mod for any Cobra

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...StreetRadialII

The best improvement in actual (not bench racing) performance of any car comes with putting the best, stickiest rubber on the ground.

I run Toyo R888s and have great traction (not quite wrinkle-wall traction, but close), even with >600 ft-lb RWTQ. These are not as good as Greg's MTs, but are a little sportier in the cornering department.

All mods are some compromise, but never compromise on getting the best tire you can fit. BFGs, Sumos, Yokos (even the A032R - I have run those rockahamas...) are not suited to put down the power in many of these cars and they then become dangerous unnecessarily.

Tires and traction
 

Just remember, the more traction you get, the greater the probability of snapping a half shaft. I snapped two with GY F1's. I also put Nitto NT-05's on the rear. They grip real well but don't last long. On the track I run NT-01's with great success. The car handles real well however the rearend will still pass you up in tight turns with too much gas. A very well know driving instructor once told me, "you dont need more horsepower, you need to learn how to drive".

Here are two examples of street use of drag radials standing start. Watch video Part 1 at about 40 seconds. There's a C5 Corvette on drag radials with a stroker twin turbo with a wet shot NOS system around 1000 HP. The other car near by has drag radials also.

http://www.scottsdaleexoticcarclub.c...e430video.html