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I'm about sick of oil leaks
I have a 427W with strike Force heads and it seems to me that the cobra valve covers are just to big,the gasket is out on sides even if I use studs to make sure the gasket is on cover and heads right. I have tried two different type gaskets and still have issues. I have a Canton front sump oil pan and it leaks at rear.I love to clean car and look under hood at a clean engine dept.
But that is not what I have, help guys. about to get aggrevated.. what gaskets have you had luck with? |
It sounds like you have the answer. Misfit valve covers.
1. Pictures - show us what you mean about the gaskets sticking out 2. What valve covers are you using 3. What type of gasket material are you using 4. Are you using silicon on the gaskets 5. Are the valve cover seats distorted? Don't torque them down so hard that you now have high spots in between the bolts This should not be a problem. It's likely some issue with the covers. |
I like to use cork valve cover gaskets, all though, you only get one use out of them. Also cast alloy valve covers seal better than stamped (chromed usually) steel covers. To much flex on the edges with the steel covers. Of course, don't over tighten and put to much crush on the gasket surface.
Oil pan leak at the rear is real tough. The question is: From where is it coming? Rear main seal? Back of the intake running down? Valve cover leak at the rear and running down? Oil has an amazing ability to travel and leave you looking in the wrong place for the leaks origin. Might not be the oil pan or rear main seal at all... |
I use the rubber ones, had the valve covers off multiple times with no leaks.
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I did a 347 a few months back with FRPP polished valve covers and AFR heads. I always like to use the steel core rubber valve cover gaskets, but in this case the valve cover stuck out past the gasket and we had a nice little leak on the dyno.
Put a nice wide pair of cork gaskets on and problem solved. |
Yep, I'm right there with you! I have a similar set up and had leaks. I actually use two cork gaskets on each valve cover. I glue one to the head and one to the valve cover. I use studs to hold them together and align it all. I also spray Pam cooking spray on the gaskets before I install, but not to much (don't ask how I know!). It helps when you have to adjust valves. The pan is a tough one till you get it off. Like others have said it could be the pan, the rear seal, or the gasket??? Keep us posted. Thanks, Matt.
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From everything I know, I'd be more concerned if a 427 didn't leak. It probably means it is dry :)
Mine was dripping because the dipstick wasn't properly calibrated and we were overfilling it. The spots on the floor have somewhat stopped but there is probably some lingering overflow. I intend on taking a Hotsy to the undercarriage this week. |
It's a "wannabe" 427, a replica, a tiny block, leaves plenty room under the hood to work on it, it's a big W see, a big W, like Windsor. Oh, and it leaks oil, just like the real deal. Now THAT is a true clone of a "real" 427. :)
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I think it is a deal were parts don't want to match up, the cobra valve covers seem to be cheap, the heads seems to have a smaller ring around the top.Miss matched parts issue.I need to find a gasket that will fit heads and cobra valve covers.
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I used the Felpro cork gaskets with a steel center in mine and never had a leak. I never took the valve covers off much so I didn't mind replacing the old gaskets with new ones when I did. Also the thicker gaskets gave me a little more clearance for the roller rockers.
Ron |
I've had better success with cork as well.
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I have the Cobra Finned Aluminum valve covers, what are you using?I have the cork with steel in middle on it now and have in places allot of gasket sticking outside the valve cover even with studs.How tight are you tighting them?
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A cast aluminum cover is a good thing. Chances of the seat being distorted are low.
If you have gasket sticking out: -it slipped out of place while you were installing it. I find that studs are not spaced close enough to keep this wobbly thing in place. That's why I use just a thin film of silicone to act as glue to hold the gasket on the cover. Chances are this is the problem. - you're tightening the valve cover down too hard. Chances are, this is not the problem. |
Most of these engines leak. Especially the real 427s. They are natural leakers especially at the rear seal area. Like someone here said, I'd worry if it didn't leak.
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They all leak at some point. Valve covers tend to leak after they go off and on several times (when the gaskets are totally crushed). Oil pans seem to seep, stock or after
market, I thought I had a rear seal leak, actually my brand new 10 qt. Canton on my FE motor was seeping. Thghtened it and now good to go. Had a few other situations , one leak by a bolt on the oil filter adapter plate...dumb things like these. Don't fret it's just a FORD. |
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