Tell me again why Evans would make your oil temperature run hotter?

That IS the question! What's up with that? How does that happen? Whats going on there?

The good news is I can finally get my oil temp up to reasonable amount. The bad news is, will it go beyond 250 degrees F under race track conditions?

It would be pretty funny if it turned out your oil temp sensor was in your intake manifold and your water temp sensor was down in your oil pan.:LOL:

Hilarious!

I recently installed a SECOND (#2 is electric) water temp gauge, before SAAC-35. Just a bit paranoid wth being on the track and all. I didn't want to have to guess what the temp's were. 240 F, by the way, water temp, immediately after a very hard run. The temp would spike to that as I slowed and came from the track to the garage area at 10-15 mph or so.

Still researching the question, but I think I get it, from reading this link (complex stuff).

http://www.evanscooling.com/maintenance/

Apparently all coolants "vaporize" at some point when they come in contact with the very hot combustion chamber zones, including Evans. This is a rather constant aspect of an engine cooling process, water turns to "steam" (vaporizes) and is recondensed back into liquid by the radiator. These "pockets of air" are for the most part not a big problem but it is fundamentally why we run a pressurized and/or antifreeze mixture, to raise the boiling point. When temps start to get to high, the size of the "bubbles" increase, leaving hot spots, that leads to pump cavitation (water pump can't pump air) which complicates the problem (to much heat). It also leads to possible ping or knock, over pressurization of the system and thus expelling coolant out of the system (over flow tank, to the ground, etc.).

Now the good news is that this vaporization is a big factor in removing localized heat. Any of you guys that understand the principles of air conditioning can appreciate the tremendous amount of heat exchanged during a phase change, in this case from a liquid to a gaseous state (BIG energy transfer takes place). Evans, like water, also vaporizes, but to a far lesser degree with much smaller bubbles. Because of it's extreme high boiling point it also recondenses back to a liquid much quicker than water.

I think the oil is getting hotter because it's not in contact, nearly as much anyway, with the phase change that water goes through. The temperatures are more consistent, no sudden changes, no BIG all at once heat transfer. Thus, the oil temp and water temp tend to equalize, more consistently.

Once you reach a certain temperature, with water, it becomes increasingly difficult to recondense back into a liguid state. The system would reach a "tipping point" of heat that it could not recover from. She's gonna blow Cap'n! And theres nothing you can do about it. Oh wait, there is, you could run Evans instead of water! :)

And when and if she does "blow", you can remove the cap easier because the system pressure is WAY lower than any water mix could allow for. I tried that, I actually took off my radiator cap off with the engine temp at a 100 c. Nothing happened, the coolant was clearly circulating, nothing to see here, move along folks, I was quite surprised.

Try that with a water based system and you would be looking at third degree burns!

Any update on this after 2 years?

Ernie sold his car. The coolant went with it....:cool:

I didn't know that.

Is anyone else using Evens?

I have used it for 4 years in my '38 Chevy running a blown/stroked 383 running Nitrous. 4pound radiator cap. The previous owner had already put Evans in it and I just continued. Blew a head gasket and Evans didn't hurt anything. The only thing you need to know is after it has been run through an engine, Evans looks exactly like dirty oil, which is what I thought it was when I got a little overflow when I refilled the radiator. You don't need a catch tank because Evans has a higher boiling point and does not expand like water with antifreeze. It holds its level. Just changes color. Never had a problem with the stuff. It's a big engine in a real small space so I don't want to take any chances. It doesn't overheat with the Evans in it so I don't mess with it. The Cobra doesn't have any overheating issues so I never felt the need to run it in that.

Much ado about?

Still running the Evans, so far so good. I do suspect that I am getting a tiny bit of leakage, will have to check the plugs. I get the "coolant" smell lightly once in a while. I did put the taurus fan on, and that helped a lot, as when I got the car, she would get up near 250 in heavy Fla traffic in the summer (95 degrees, 95 percent humidity). With the Evans, I never worried about blowing a hose, as the motor is all cast iron.
She now gets around 80-90C, then the taurus kicks on and it drops a little, then if needed, I hit the switch and the 2nd speed comes on and the temp really drops.. One day I will switch out the brass radiator to an aluminum one to complete the cooling mods.
I do like not worrying about blowing a hose, as I have a 4lb cap on the system and it seems to be working...

Jim

What bothers me is Evans has about 20% less heat rejection capabilities than conventional water/glycol. Even though your car isn't boiling over it still can have the problem of running too hot. With elevated cooling system temperatures engine clearances change, especially with an aluminum block/head engine.

I did a good bit of Evans research when my engine was "cooling challenged". I elected to really fix the problem, rather than an ineffective band-aide.

I would think that temps are still temps? Isn't 180° still 180° no matter what you are running for coolant? Why would the internal temps be any different?

Also, would running Evans eliminate having to run an anode because of electrolysis (sp) from using an aluminum radiator?

More good info here, my experience with Evans post #13 ...
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/shop...t-results.html

I should have been a bit more explicit...:o

Evan's fine, assuming you have a bit of cooling system redundancy. My point was, if you have a cooling system that doesn't cut the mustard now and temps rise above the norm then replacing the coolant with Evans will make the situation worse. You've now cut your ability to reject heat even more.

Not necessarily, the sweet spot for Evans to reject heat is a little higher than a normal coolant, but once there you can load the engine pretty good and not see the same increase in temps from there. FYI with the below, but the link for this article is now dead.

Circle track racers: "Running higher coolant temperatures makes sense if you can control it, but what effect does the higher temperatures have on oil temperatures? Evans' answer comes from his testing with Detroit's automakers. Evans said, "Chevrolet is now saying we should be running the oil temperature at 220 to 240 degrees. If you're not, you are giving away horsepower. We have learned to stay below 260 to 270 degrees because the life of the oil starts to fall off. The people who run 180 degrees need to know that it is not good for the bearings. The oil is too thick. The rings are plowing through it and the pump is pushing it, both of which rob horsepower."
http://www.evanscooling.com/articles/aug97ct.htm

Sorry Undy. Guess I really did not understand what you were leading to.

Any thoughts on the Anode thing?

Yeah, I really wasn't too clear:(

The anode thing swings back and forth. I've never ran one. I always run distilled water to keep mineral products out of the equation. I also never ground anything to and/or around the radiator.

To may knowledge I've never suffered any needed repair due to galvanic/electrolytic corrosion.

Thanks Undy.

My issue is where to put the anode. I have an upper hose in-line cap so the anode does not swing. It just lays in the upper radiator hose. As I have the stainless corrigated looking hoses it gets stuck from the flow I guess and holds my cap open and lets fluid through. So I am running without it for now.