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Need info from the Everett-Morrison guys
Hey everyone.
Big milestone last Saturday. I fired up my 431 FE stroker for the first time, on an engine stand. Sounds wicked bad! I'm putting it in my E-M (circa 1995) over the winter. One thing I noticed was the location of the headers in relation to the motor mounts. I looks like the engine is going to mount about 3 inches farther forward than the 302 that's in the car now. I bought a set of used headers and motor mount assemblies from a burnt E-M. He also gave me the sections of frame with the mount brackets welded on. They are almost identical to the weldments on my frame on length and spacing on the frame, but the headers where they exit the body are too far back. It actually looks like there's going to be major interference with the foot boxes. If I switch the headers side to side, the alignment with the body is much better, but the rear pipe on the passenger side header hits the starter and can not be mounted on the head. Soooo, I don't know if I have an alignment problem, or a clearance problem with the starter. What I need is a measurement from the back of the cylinder head to the firewall on an FE equipped E-M car, so I can better visualize where the engine is supposed to sit. Maybe a photo or two? |
From building mine---the flywheel face of the block is located in the same place on all engines---there won't be 3 inches of differance
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That's what I thought, too. I must have the headers reversed. That's the only way the right header clears the starter. Maybe I need to use a mini-starter to get the needed clearance between the starter and the header.
Ralphie, You have an FE. Do you have any input? |
Just switched my headers from side to side. Alignment looks lots better. Definitly will have to use a mini starter. Got the dimensions from RobbMc websight. It'll fit with room to spare.
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I've got a top oiler and use the stock Ford Starter. No problems with fit or heat. Just did new freeze plugs and the starter came out and went back in fine.
My E-M is 1992 vintage. Tim |
Tom,
I have a factory style starter. Headers outside the frame! As far as the position of the motor, I have seen enough pics here to think a small block does sit further back. Is this guy with the burnt EM parting it out? The Other Ralphy |
The rear pipes on my headers have a curved section of pipe that curves down and is in the way of the hump on the starter. Although they are E-M headers, they look different from the photo in Julie's catalog. I checked clearance with a straight edge, with the starter out and there would only be 1/8" inch clearance between the starter housing and the header, without taking into consideration the hump on top of the starter. It's really a non-issue. I'm ok using a mini starter. If I could figure out how to post pictures to show what I'm talking about, I'd do it. Computer illiterate with Windows Vista. Two strikes right there. There are a couple of pictures in my album on the Everett-Morrison social group area. Maybe you can see what the headers look like.
As far as the remains of the burnt Cobra, I don't think there's anything left. It's been 1 1/2 years since I bought the headers and side pipes. |
Update on my Cobra upgrade. I pulled the 302 out and installed the FE using the motor mounts that came with the used headers. The motor bolted in perfectly, but the driver's side header hits the foot box and the engine would have to come forward 1 1/2" to allow clearance between the header and the footbox. This also makes the headers too far forward for the sidepipe opening on the body. I contacted Stainless Works here in Ohio and was quoted $2400.00 for a set of one-off headers. So unless I can come up with another solution The 302 is going back in the car for another year.
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Well Stainless Works quoted me $4500 for polished headers and sidepipes. No way I could justify spending that much on an exhaust system. I called Stahl Headers and bought mild steel, J bends and flanges for $306 and had headers made.
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Quote:
Ask around at some of the performance shops or local machine shops. Im sure someone around there can build you a set of headers for not a whole lot. Order the flanges for the heads,j-bends,90degree bends(make sure you get the ones that will mate inside radius to outside radius) and whatever flanges you need to go to your sidepipes. Mount your side pipes on the car and build from the heads out to the sidpipes. Its not hard it just takes time and patience. |
I think FUNFER2 ? (Kevin) here on CC has a stainless header/side pipe kit that he sells. Not sure how much but they sure look nice. You could check with him.
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