|
ERA Car and 427 FE Primary Header Removal
Can the left and right header primaries be removed from an ERA 427 car frame # 539 with a 427 FE not moved in the frame/car??
The right side seems that it may come out with rocker cover removed. I have a right manifold gasket leak. I know the left side steering shaft will have to be removed, but it looks too "closed in" to remove from the top. Asking for future knowledge. |
I have an older ERA so maybe things have changed. The primaries are made up of individual pipes in my case. A couple of small bolts hold things together. I simply removed those small bolts and took the various pipes out one at a time. That did not require removing anything (steering shaft, valve covers, etc.).
It was a bit of puzzle when it came time to reassemble, trying to figure out which pipe went where or which side it came from... :) |
once you remove the side pipes and unbolt the collector tabs you can unbolt each individual primary pipe and pull them out one at a time.
|
You are right, they are individual. I took a closer look/feel from the top. Now I can go to bed tonight fixing it in my head. Thanks
|
good luck. I prefer fel pro gaskets and arp header bolts.
|
Take a pic of it while it's assembled or label the pipes to avoid Excalibers problem.
|
The newer pipes are stamped with the number of their order on the flange. I don't know how long they have been doing this. Bob P. mentioned this right after I had spent an hour playing with the pieces to get them in proper order.
|
The pipes are stamped with a number (if you got them from us) on each flange. The bad part is they are numbered with Ch*vy convention, not Fords. Numbering is from the front, 1-4 on the driver's side, 5-8 on the passenger's side. There are good assembly diagrams in the manual.
|
You should be able to change the header gaskets without completely removing the primaries. Just remove the bolts and pull them back an inch or so for clearance. Just make sure you prop up the sidepipe with a jackstand. I installed mine without much trouble. Some bolts must be accessed from under the car.
|
That is an excellent point ZOERA, no need to disassemble anything, I've changed the exhaust manifold gaskets several times on mine. I drilled a hole just above the throttle pedal area in the side of the lower fire wall to gain access to the last header bolt on the drivers side. I simply seal the hole back up when I'm done. It is a little tricky getting your extension/socket to find the exhaust bolt, but it works for me. Yup, some bolts you have to get from under the car.
By the way, after all that trouble to replace the gasket? One word: Remflex! I've tried everything else, various standard gaskets, the copper gaskets, etc. Remflex, nails it, gaurenteed not to leak. Expensive? Not if you have to do it TWICE with other gaskets. |
Quote:
Try it again after storing them in the garage for a few weeks, big pile, freshly painted to hide all clues and traces of where they might have been. Now THATS a puzzle! |
Thanks for the ideas and tips.
I bought the car already built and have been fixing it with a lot of preventive. Bob is always sending me parts as the car is 12 years old with low miles, but making it new. I burn through 1/4 to half a tank after work around the German back roads and Autobahn til it gets late dark. I love driving it. A very solid car. With the exhaust, I figured if I take them all off and check/clean mating surfaces, set flange alignment and use fresh gaskets so I do not have to do it again. Everything I fix just makes it better and rewarding. |
There are 3 bolts that are difficult to mount. At least on my ERA. You can probably figure which ones.
Since the flanges on the primary pipes have slots you can mount the difficult bolts before the primary pipes. One warning the gasket has holes and not slots! Last time I mounted the primary pipes, I did it in less than 1 hour. Earlier it took about 1 hour just to mount the most difficult screw. |
Learjockey1 where in Germany do you live?
I am going to Erlangen on Sunday. |
The top rear bolt on driver's side is the only difficult one to get to (the others are easy as long as you have a flex socket and some long extensions for your ratchet). To get the rear drivers side header bolt off, follow the directions in the ERA Assembly Manual. There's a diagram that shows you how to bend a box end wrench to make removing that bolt much easier.
Chris |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:47 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: