| Kramer |
10-30-2010 11:50 AM |
Help - Need to open my exhaust hole
after looking at all my options, I want to enlarge my drivers side exhaust hole about 1/4 inch on the top. (the hole in the car was simply cut too low) The car is fully complete with paint so I wanted to get any input /advise on how I might do this procedure.
my thought is to use some custom paint tape to mirror the dimension of the hole and use either a drimmell or maybe even a small file (or wood piece wrapped in sand paper.)
Obviously I a not a body man, but I think I should be able to do this.
Any thoughts?
Kramer
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| cobrajeff |
10-30-2010 12:33 PM |
I massaged my exhaust cut-outs just about as you describe. I found witness marks on the pipes, indicating to me that they were moving a little bit when the engine torqued, and the hole wasn't quite large enough. I used a die grinder with a couple different cutters to open to the shape I wanted, then dressed it with a combination of flat, half-round, and rat-tail files. Finished off with a "tootsie-roll" sanding spool on the die grinder, and then touched up the edges with body-color paint.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/Left_5.JPG
Jeff |
| mickmate |
10-30-2010 04:42 PM |
If you lay out the line with a tape edge and work back to that. I used a right angle die grinder with a 2" sanding disc for most of the straight line and the drum sander for corners. Use sharp sanders and don't get too much heat on one spot for too long it will burn the paint. Work in towards the inside with your sanding and filing so it doesn't pull any paint off the edge. Paint the inside edge when you're done as it's already masked. Don't post it on the internet and no one will ever know it's been done ;-)
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| ACademic |
10-30-2010 07:56 PM |
These are all great tips. But I have to admit that the thread title had me rolling even before I started reading. :LOL:
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| Dwight |
10-30-2010 08:03 PM |
a couple of layers of tape and a jig saw.
Dwight
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| Kramer |
10-31-2010 09:08 PM |
Thanks guys - appreciate the help. !!
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| jhv48 |
10-31-2010 09:55 PM |
A high speed Dremel with a grinding/sanding attachment. Very precise for delicate work and very easy to control and maneuver.
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| RICK LAKE |
11-01-2010 04:17 AM |
Don't do it
Kramer it's not needed. Is the motor level in the car??? You may have to put a tilt in it, I did of about 1-3 degrees. This is why the frame mounts are slotted and it only take a floor jack and the loosing of the bolts to fix. 14 years of beatin on my car and 2 motor changes. If ERA cut the holes in the fenders, than they are ok. The other thing is to bend the pipes to get the clearance you want. The pipes are going to move from heat cycles over time.Mine to touch on the R/s when the car was new. Added bolts throught the motor mount to stop the motor from jumping out of the frame. There is a old thread on how to do this. Try a UNDY one or Patrick t. for pictures. Rick L. If you still have hitting of the body after centering, install a tork strap of link between the motor and frame of the car. Best place is the back of the block to the frame but hard to get too. Installing on the front of the motor is ok but the motor will twist and not just roll a little.
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| Snakebit |
11-01-2010 11:57 AM |
"I need to open up my exhaust hole". I thought you needed a Proctoligist!
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