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What did you guys do to solve this
Hey guys, I have a 351 windsor with 2 small coolant leaks. Minor but annoying. They leave a very small drip puddle.
The first one is between the water pump and the backing plate. The space is very limited and I can't fit a wrench to tighten the two bolts. Terrible design to say the least. This leak follows down my lower radiator return hose. Has anyone been able to tighten these bolts? The second leak has starting at one of the nylon nails used for attaching the 16" puller fan to my radiator. My radiator is an old brassy. Will an additive like "Bars Leaks Radiator stop leak" solve my problems. Do you guys recommend an additive? Will they damage other components? By adding these am I trading one problem for another. |
From what I’ve heard is, Radiator stop leak also plugs up your radiator too. Your trading one problem for another.
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It doesn't sound like you have much to lose by trying the stop leak. (It's reported that new car manufacturers commonly put a stop-leak compound in new vehicles.)
The alternative is to pull the radiator and get it fixed and pull the water pump to replace the gaskets. |
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Bars is preferable to the latter two options though. |
Two engine builders have told me many new cars and new engines use the aluminium powder to take care of situations like your radiator. Every engine I have built or had built has had the bars stop leak put into the radiator just after the dyno. The radiator stop leak also serves as a lubricant for your water pump too. If you are going to track your car you cannot run antifreeze which among other things has a lubricating property. Buy a pint of the Aluminium Bars Stop leak and follow the instructions. I think you will be pleased. The StopLeak will also help with electrolisys of dis-similar metals (aluminium and steel) which is a whole different problem.
Clois Harlan |
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll give the bars leak a go.
Outwest34au, I've heard of the black pepper and eggwhites used for leaks. How much of each would you put into the radiator. I appreciate the help. Have a good day. |
As far as the waterpump gasket you are right, horrible design. If you tighten your regular gasket to tight when assembly it will only extrude, if you do not tighten enough the bolts loosen overtime with the heat cycles and it leaks, I tried shaving wrenches etc to fit there. Two solutions get small heads when you put it together so you can tighten or purchase a Cometic 5663 gasket which replaces the felpro 35066. These are metal line gaskets with rubber run about $12.00. You can tighten the living sheet and they will not extrude and you wont have a leak, if you also want to replace the one betweent the backing plate and timing cover the number is cometic 5662. I know it hurts to spend $25.00 on water pump gaskets, but you wanted the solution.
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Jaguar and Subaru are two manufacturers I know of that specifically call for a "stop leak" type of compound to be added to the cooling system as a matter of routine maintenance. That is applicable to certain specific models with known leaking issues right from the factory.
Jaguar of course makes sense, it's English, you know it's gonna leak. :) But I was surprised to see Subaru also had some problems in that regard. I've used the pelletized style Bars Leak for years on many many different cars, works well, never a problem. |
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David |
First off thanks guys for your trusted advice and information.
It's great to know that "stop leak additives" are used by vehicle manufactures. I just added the copper bottle "Bar's stop leak" and took her out for a 30 minute spin. I came back parked her and so far so good. I'll lift it up and take a look tonight. It was great having to tell work I'd be coming in late.. Never enough excuses to take the cobra out. Madmaxx, thanks for the gasket info and numbers. I wrote that info down for future reference. I thought of shaving wrenches too.. The space is so limited up there. My worry is after a turn, hopefully the bolt is lined up enough to put the wrench in for the next torque. If the leak persists there, then I'll have to replace the gaskets. I really do appreciate the advice guys. Thanks for your time. |
If your engine is not polished the bars leak will be fine, if polished you will see little brown droplets but after a couple hundred miles they will subside. Retorque your water pump bolts but not to tight or the POS paper gasket will squirm out.
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In my experience it may take a few days, or even longer, for the Bars Leak to completely seal a leak. So don't get discouraged to early if it appears that it didn't work.
Sometimes a leak stops right away, usually that is the case, but... |
So how did I know about Subaru and leak stop? Because I have one!! It turns out the 1998-1999 2.5 litre engine has a bad history of blowing head gaskets. Sure enough, mine blew! Because it's infrequently used (mostly for pulling a small trailor around and when 4 wheel drive is required) I don't want to spend any money on it.
Bars Leak HEAD GASKET sealer to the rescue! It's a several hour project following directions, which are quite detailed. Following the treatment, the last step is to drain and LET SIT for 12 to 24 hours for the chemicals to cure. So it's like a two day marathon. Success! No bubbles in the radiator, no over pressure in the cooling system, temperature holding steady. ...quick, sell it! :) Nah, I think I'll keep it and call it a "long term" test of the product, so far so good. But then again, I don't drive it much so, who knows. |
Excaliber,
Ok..That's good to know..So it might take a few drives. I would say days but the weather here in Utah is still unsettled. The last two weeks we had a couple days around 60 and I had her out. This week weather sucks, so I'm having to fight the withdrawls. My brother had a subaru legacy I think. He had to have the Head gaskets replaced..Too bad, he didn't know about the Gasket seal then. He ended up selling it after. ha ha Madmaxx, I'll make a once over on the water pump bolts. I'm pretty sure they are tight it's just those pesky bolts on the rear ( Back Plate ). The rear plate gasket is moist so I am pretty sure that's the problem area. I'm hoping Bar's Leak solves that. If not the next time I'm at the local shop, I'll get them to try and torque those. :) Thanks, Have a great day gents. |
Leecbr,
My worry is after a turn, hopefully the bolt is lined up enough to put the wrench in for the next torque. I wound up buying a water pump that varies the amount of water pumped with the speed and it had no back plain like the stock ones do but was a one piece cast aluminum one. I ran it hard for to years and never had a leak. But for the stock one and other hard to get to bolts, I went to Sears and bought some of their ratchet boxed end ranches and shaved that end down to where it would go into the spaces and that way I never had to worry about getting the bolt turned enough to get the wrench back on it. I also modified several ranches to get to other bolts on the Coupe as they were impossible to get to with a regular wrench. Ron ;) |
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But in all seriousness, apart from bars leaks we used to use a product in the Cummins engines (always leaked around the head gaskets) and it was a brown block that I believe contained pelletised rubber and other goodies. If bars doesn't work well for you track down a mechanic at a truck or tractor shop and they may know of these blocks. |
Bars worked for me. Immediately stopped the leak from the water pump housing. That was a year ago. So far, no leak has returned.
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Ron61,
Thankyou for the suggestion. When I replace the water pump I'm upgrading to a better design for sure. I was going to go with shaving the wrenches as a last option. I was pretty much thinking if the additive didn't work. I would just replace the gaskets/pump and get the radiator to a shop. I lifted the cobra last night and that stuff really works. The water pump back plate and gasket was dry. The radiator leak by the vinyl nail dry also....absolutely no leaks!!!... I drove it into work today, a balmy 55 degrees. Still no leaks. :) Jhv48, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks man. I admit I wasn't a believer, but now I am. It's nice having piece of mind. Maybe Bar's and Trojan should work together on a new product. The additive I used: "Bar's/18 oz. liquid copper block seal, intake and radiator stop leak" $8.99 at Autozone. Plus the label suggests to leave the additive in the system to ensure ongoing protection. Thanks again guys. |
Expanion tank leak
I have a leak where the top and bottom are seal and have remover it to be repaired twice....will this work on that?
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Saltshaker,
I believe it will. On the bottle it claims to seal the largest leaks that other leak sealers won't. Here is a link to the product and a clear description. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=560508_0_0_ This is what I used. It permanently repairs leaks in gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, heater cores, intake manifolds, blocks, heads and freeze plugs. Plus you can leave it in the cooling system. No draining and refilling. I removed some antifreeze to make room for the additive. In your case I would add 1/4 of the Bar's Leak into your expansion tank. I would empty the remainder of the Bar's Leak into the radiator. Don't forget to top off your coolant level after the Bar's leak is added. Then start the vehicle and let it idle for 5 minutes. After that I drove mine for about 20 + minutes. good luck |
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