SPF hydraulic clutch adjustment tips needed.
 

I've got just a few moments to start this thread since I'm about to go out for the evening and will post more information if needed later. Okay....SPF 2423 originally came with a 351w 385hp crate motor and TKO500 tranny with factory aluminum bellhousing. New motor is a 351w based stroker 408 and a TKO600 tranny using Quick Time bellhousing and I believe Hays clutch and pressure plate I got from B2 motorsports. My question is I believe I was told and seen elsewhere that the throw-out bearing should have .030 to .085 clearance to the diaphram when the clutch is not engaged. Note: The ball stud in the new bellhousing was set to match the existing stock bellhousing. Okay, if I take the original bracket and clutch slave cylinder with a push rod that has no adjustment the rod makes contact with the clutch fork prior to the bracket of the slave cylinder fitting flush to the bellhousing. In other words when the slave cylinder is in position the throw out bearing makes contact with the pressure plate and the push rod is somewhat compressed into the slave cylinder. The pressure plate is not engaged at all other than having contact. Clutch pedal feel seems okay but according to what I've been told this installation is not correct. If I use an alternate slave cylinder with an adjustable push rod to gain clearance it just seems odd because now the opposite end of the push rod that enters the slave cylinder would be somewhat loose and what would keep the fork and throw out bearing from just sliding forward making contact with the pressure plate when there is nothing holding the push rod to the slave cylinder? Help would be greatly appreciated. Car has been down for 7 months and I'm ready to get it going again!

Perry, it's a RAM clutch. ;)

You need to use the slave cylinder kit that I sent you.

Call me.

You're fine.

Slight pressure on the clutch fork/throwout bearing is normal when you use a pusher type slave cylinder. No way to eliminate it unless you change to a puller type slave cylinder.

Listen to blykins, he definatly knows

I use a pusher style slave cylinder with an adjustable pushrod. With the piston fully extended, I adjust the pushrod for about 1/16" gap between the throwout bearing and the diaphragm clutch fingers. I have a spring that keeps the slave cylinder end of the clutch arm pulled towards the slave cylinder. This removes the freeplay in the linkage and holds the throwout bearing off the clutch fingers when the clutch is released.

Rodger

RodgerH....I spoke with Brent this evening and he suggested the use of a spring. However, my other concern is...with the original bracket and slave cylinder the push rod is in perfect alignment going to the clutch fork. With the one I received from Brent the adjustable rod is out of alignment by 1 1/4" in about 2 1/2" the distance it is from the back of the bracket to the clutch fork putting the push rod in a severe angle. So maybe the bracket is incorrect. I'll work this out with Brent tomorrow. By the way, Brent has been extremely helpful and responsive to all my questions and I appreciate his knowledge and being that great person. I started feeling bad that I called all the time so I turned to all the great guys on Club Cobra for advice. By the way would you happen to have a picture of how the spring is mounted?

The clutch fork has two holes we'll just say and inner and outer hole....outer being furthest from the pivot point. I just looked at a pic that B2 sent me a while back with the setup I purchased from him and it shows the rod going through the inner hole of the clutch fork. The original set up (bracket and slave cylinder) was outer hole. When I installed the B2 provided in the outer hole the push rod is way out of alignment. When I relocated push rod to inner hole everything seems to align now. May explain why the pivoting ball at the push rod is larger. That may be solved but would like to see the spring pic if someone has to share.