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Pman, if your bleeder valve is on the top of the slave cylinder, like most SPF slaves are, the gravity method works fine. I Do it on mine twice a year and it has been recommended in other threads on this forum. However, if you want to make the job more costly and complicated, then by all means buy the equipment and do reverse bleeding. They all accomplish the same thing.
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Im on the way to the hardware store. $9.00 is better than $60.00. |
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It does NOT work if you have air in the master cylinder, period. Tried it many times, I wish it was that simple.:CRY::CRY::CRY: |
Piman, what makes you think there is air in your master cylinder? It appears that you disconnected the slave from the trans and let it hang by the hydraulic line while doing some engine work. If you didn't open the bleeder or remove the master cylinder, there shouldn't be air anywhere in the system, as it is a closed system. I did the same thing when I pulled my trans and just reattached the slave without bleeding the system. Everything worked fine, just as it did before I unbolted the slave from the transmission.
Was your pedal spongy? Was the clutch failing to completely disengage? What symptoms were showing thated you to believe that you needed to bleed your clutch hydraulics? |
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Just found this thread....
JHV is right, every Mustang from the mid 80's on up through 2003-2004 used a bearing that rides the pressure plate. However, I've had a couple of McLeod bearings fail that way. When I called McLeod about it, they said that the bearings were not meant to be in continuous use. So, I always recommend that if it's possible to set the clutch up with a little clearance between the bearing and the pressure plate, the same as you would for an older style Ford clutch actuation system. Keep in mind that when pressure plates wear, the fingers will rise. Without an automatic adjuster that's present in the Mustangs, you really have to watch about the bearing keeping constant pressure on the plate as it will put more preload on the pressure plate than what's necessary (or good). |
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I've been where you are right now. Tried to bleed the slave the first time using a friend to step on the clutch pedal and then opened and closed the bleeder valve, Didn't work for me at all. Pedal went dead, and only a little bit of fluid came out. After trying three or four different times, I read on this forum about the gravity method. Opened the reservoir, put a pan underneath the slave, opened the bleeder valve and watched the old, dirty fluid drip into the pan. Refilled the reservoir three times till the fluid coming out was clear, closed the bleeder valve and everything worked perfectly! Don't know why it worked, but it did and has for the past three years! |
JHV48...I replaced my slave cylinder with a Rosehill unit I purchased from B2 Motorsports because of the adjustable push rod. I swapped the original unit which was constant pressure with the Rosehill so I could achieve the clearance requirements my good friend Mr. Brent suggests. The bleeder is at the top of the unit by the way. Back to Brent for a moment. I must say he has responded to all my calls...I mean lots of calls during this Cobra transformation process. I just hope he doesn't have a limit of how many calls he'll take from me before he blocks my number. Hopefully we all learn from this and will be good reference for others. When I spoke to Rosehill today they stated there is a 2 or 2 1/2" rod throw which they liked. I believe only around an inch is needed to engage clutch. But appearing down the cylinder with the dust boot off there is only about a 1/2" to fully extend. This makes me think there is still some air in the system. Hydramada (Cobra Brian as I call him) is supposed to come by tomorrow afternoon to check it out. I'll follow up and try some of your suggestions and let you know how it works out. Thanks to all.
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Steve |
I'll measure tomorrow and post. B2 has sold many of these setups with no problems. Guess I'm making up for them all.
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