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351W distributor installation
I removed my MSD distibutor from my Roush 427R. It came out easily. Now I cannot get it back in. It will not seat all the way because the distributor gear and oil pump gear do not mesh all the way. Do I have to turn the oil pump gear to "thread" it onto the camshaft gear? If so how do I do this? Do I have to start removing engine accessories etc. to get at the gear? Seemed like a simple job. Has turned into a nightmare.
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Did you mark the position of the rotor and the distributor body when you pulled it out? If not, then you'll need to time the engine again and you'll need to be very careful about the way you install it....you can't just drop a distributor in, in any position. If you did mark both items and it just won't drop down, then just start the distributor down in the hole, hold the rotor left of the position that it needs to be in, and walk it in. |
Installing a distributor on a Ford V8 could be sometimes challenging ! You should have a look at this interesting Vid' : MSD Ignition Videos : How to install a distributor
The two buddies from MSD are given some tricks and tips which could be useful... Good luck. |
I guess the number one question is why did you pull it out? Particularly pertinent as you don't know how to put it back in! The distributor/cam gears are helical which causes the distributor rotor to turn about 20 degrees as the gears mesh. Assuming you marked the distributor base and rotor positions prior to removing the distributor (you did, right?), position the rotor about 20 degrees from your rotor mark and with the base at the base mark press the distributor into place. It should be aligned with the oil pump shaft as it was when you removed it. Start and retime.
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I used to screw around with a 1/4" drive, deep well, 5/16" socket and extension trying to get the oil pump shaft in a position to just pop the dist in but what a pain in the azz that can be. If the only thing holding you up is getting the dist shaft aligned with the op drive shaft then you can use this trick. Since you've gone as far as removing the dist then I'm assuming that you probably have a remote starter switch and know how to hook it up and use it. With that switch in one hand, place a bit of downward pressure on the dist body with the other hand and bump the starter. If you already have the dist gear teeth meshed in the right location then the dist will pop the rest of the way down within about 1/4 of a crank rotation. Now I didn’t say some things that many take for granted as things that you do every time you are working on the engine like: Trans out of gear, wheels blocked, coil wire near some ground (like a valve cover), don’t grab the rotor while bumping the starter, etc. so just be safe about it and that one little trick can save a lot of heart ache.
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I removed the ditributor because in attempting to change a worn rotor, the rotor hold down screws were rusted on!! Anti seize was never used. What a pain getting the rusted screws off. I marked the rotor position before removing. I've pulled pulled a number of distributors from cars and boats. Never a problem. This is my first ford engine what a PITA. In hindsight I could have removed the black plastic housing from the bottom of the dist. in order to get at the nuts without removing the dist. Live and learn. Back to the garage to play around some more.
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Fords are the easiest of them all. GM distributors have a greater angle on the gears and it's near impossible to just drop them in and get them to go. I usually have to hold down on them and turn the engine over to get them to seat down. A Ford distributor will usually go right in.
Be prepared to set the timing again... |
The oil pump drive shaft must be rotated about 20 degrees, or if you have the distributor in and it is properly lined up (except for the last few degrees) but not fully seated; you can press downward on the distributor body and either have an assistant tap the starter switch or use a remote starter button. The engine will begin to turn over an pull the ditributor body instantly down to fully seat it in the block. An alternative to both of the above is to use a 2nd distributor with the gear removed or a shaft from a donor distributor and insert it into the block and rotate the oil drive shaft a few degrees at a time, while repeatedly trial fitting the distributor. Be carefull when removing the distributor each time and be sure the shaft is not pulled out of the oil pump (youl'll hear the dredded "Clunk"). A combination of shaking/rotating the rotor while slowly removing the distributor will avoid this. With a little practice this becomes pretty easy as long as you realize what as to be acomplished for things to line up.
A word of caution: If you accidently pull the shaft out of the pump, it is somewhat difficult to get back into the pump without pulling the pan and spoils what would normally be a simple job. |
If you are able to pull the shaft out, then the retainer was not installed properly or you put some ungodly amount of pull force on the shaft. Either way, you did something wrong. Brent is right, a Ford has six locations per shaft rotation to mesh the distributor. A chevy only has two. Ford wins yet again!!!
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I blipped the stater and it dropped right in!! Sure is easy with the correct knowledge. Next, I have to index the distributor and set the timing. MSD instruction videos are very informative. Thanks alot for all the help and info. Ken
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