|
Spinner Failure - Video
While autocrossing this weekend, I had a spinner malfunction. This was on the last session of the day. The safety wire and hub pin did not hold. It could have been much worse. I use the same set-up when I'm driving 120+.
NOTE: The wheels and spinners are aftermarket parts. This incident was and NOT a failure of Kirkham components. Click here of Video and Photo's |
Can you say ouch?! Glad it wasn't worse and at a higher speed. Did the spinner back off or crack and fail? The threads are pretty galled up. How are the pins on the hub?
Glad everyone is alright. Testament to the Kirkhams, the car didn't have more damage than it does. Looks like the fender held the tire pretty well. |
Glad you are safe!
Did you tighten, safety wire and be sure all was in the right direction? Hmmmmmm |
Too much play between the spinner and spindle
N2Venon I didn't see the inside of the spinner but the spindle threads are stripped. I have 3 thoughts on this failure
The spinners where not retighten after every run. You have a heat cycle, metals expand and retract. This is the reason safety checks are done at events. I think if you pulled on the wheel top and bottom you would have gotten a rock motion. Just because you have safety wire in the spinner doesn't mean that the spinner doesn't loosen. It's not a sure thing Is it possible that the spinner is not stainless or weak aluminum? The hub could also be the same thing. Gald car was not heavily damaged and you where going 120+ mph. If you are going to stay with spinner, I have found that with a 4 pound plastic dead blow hammer you can tighen up spinners after every run when things are hot. I am a little surprised that the car was not funny in the rearend before breaking. Either a wobble, small vibration, should have felt it in your butt. I know guys who run nuts for there wheels and have 500ft of torque on the nuts and safety clips. Any time you have the cobra on a jack, check the front and rear tires for play. this could be loose wheel bearings, loose spinners, rear hub housing bearings or end play too much. tierod ends, inner or outters. Rick L. |
IMO it appears as though the threads in the aluminum knockoff were sheared. Initially perhaps by overtighening then pulled/cracked and sheared by the G force of the turns. The threaded hub is steel, the aluminum will be the first to fail.
|
I am betting spinner failure. It came off really fast.
Be sure and post photos. Everyone that runs knock offs should be curious. John |
Could it just be anti-seize that you are looking at on the threads?
|
I watched the Video about 5 times. Looks like the spinner came off under deceleration which would point to a loose spinner. Now if the hub was cracked or the spinner was cracked that's one thing. My guess is it was just loose. The safety wire acts as nothing but a tell tale visual indicator as to whether the spinner has moved since installed. I usually install the wire a bit loose so if it tightens up I know something moved. Don't believe overtightening is would cause this failure. It's not like you gorilla'd it on I'm sure. I would bet all whould have been overtightened in that case and I'm sure they were not. While any damange is unfortunate, it could have been much worse in a highway senerio...
Define aftermarket parts....maybe Trigo's and Vintage spinners? There are known limitations with intermixing wheels and spinners. |
That had to be quite a ride. I'm glad that you or a spectator were not hurt, and that the car wasn't seriously damaged. And it's very lucky that it happened at relatively low speed, on an autocross course, vs out on the public street with traffic, etc.
What brand of spinner and what brand of wheel? Is the interference angle between the spinner and wheel the same? Could there be a mismatch there? I'd like see a determination made as to what actually happened so we can all learn from it and hopefully prevent it from happening to someone else. What do you normally do to check your spinners? Did you check the spinner before that run? At the start of the day? Do you use a lead hammer, or something else? I know I visually check mine each time I go for a drive, and when I gas up. But not during a tour or something. I am definitely guilty of ignoring them somewhat. I have not autocrossed it, but I may. Your post should be a wake up call to all of us with a similar setup. |
I have no idea what happened but over the years on this web site there have been many discussion on how to tighten the spinners. The people in the know say lead hammer period. Others argue that a soft blow plastic hammer is good enough and some will settle for nothing less than a Nerf hammer so as not to scratch the aluminum.
Go look at some old photos of the racing Cobras, they beat the crap out of the spinners with a LEAD hammer. If you miss and hit the wheel rim you will do no damage. THAT'S WHY THEY USE LEAD |
Wow, glad it wasn't worse. Thanks for sharing as we all need to stay focused.
That looks like a loose spinner that came off quickly (as they will with the stress of autocross). In my experience, only a lead hammer lets you know they are truly seated. You can feel and hear it as you whack the spinner it goes from tinney sounding to solid as it reaches the proper torque. You can not tell in the same way with plastic, deadblow, sockets, etc. Also, you need to give each wheel a test whack after each run. You would be surprised how they will loosen. X2 on the purpose of safety wire. If you depend on it to hold the spinner, you are just an accident waiting to happen. Please let us know what you find. |
I have never seen THIS subject addressed: Were the original knockoff's from back in the day steel or aluminum?
|
Quote:
|
Hey Darren,
Holy Crap man! I’m sorry to see that. Now lets talk about the "spinner failure"…. it kinda looks like a "spinner installation failure"....? You sure are giving that Aluminum a work out! Do you have an office and a permanent parking space in Provo? lol Anyway, I’m glad to know you weren’t hurt and the damage looks minimal. Jason |
Quote:
For what it's worth, and it ain't much :CRY:, I'd say steel. Kudos to Darren for sharing. No matter who or what was at fault, it's probably not easy showing something like this publicly. Some guys are waxers (polishers) and some are drivers. Darren is both :cool: On a side note, my Snake River Canyon jump will NOT be filmed. |
I agree completely and mean no disrespect to Darren. He sure certainly isn’t a “Poser” in my book….
Jason |
Quote:
Reason being that even in those days they were starting to understand the effects of unsprung weight on a suspension system. Since it's about a 3 to 1 ratio between steel and aluminum, I would be surprised if they were steel. |
Quote:
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:59 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: