Based on comments above, how a Unique and ERA feel , drive, and handle different, I'd be interested to hear details on that. ( like chassis stiffness effect on handling ?) Even more so, I'd like to hear same details from anyone who has driven an original 60s Cobra and can compare to ERA and/or Unique, or other replica. (this has probably been addressed on this forum before, but I don't remember it, or wasn't on board then). I'd like to think I am getting very close to the original driving experience, but have never had the opportunity to drive an original. Thanks

They said that to me even before I bought mine... that told me they were very confident about their product and straight shooters. I'm happy with what I got!

PS Dan if you go back and add the [/ right before the QUOTE], then the quote will appear correctly...

Go with Unique
 

I think both cars are very, very nice. Both made in the USA, both with a strong and long tradition of building quality Cobra replicas.

I bought a Unique 289 FIA, looked at both ERA and Unique. I guess my choice was clear when I discovered how long it would take for ERA to complete the car. Way too long, I am a bit impatient.

Unique Motorcars by the Weaver family in Gadsden, Alabama is a great example of a well run American Company that has been around for well over 30 years.

You need to cal Alan Weaver at Unique and if possible visit them. The decision will be clear after you do.

Either way you will be pleased.

Juan

That is about it, very well said.


Bill S.

Ive been in contact with both companies and got the same from both, if I didnt buy thier car the others was the next best thing. Glad to see there are still companies in this country who belive in good old fashion service. Ive been putting more thought into this purchase than I did my previous marriage. :D

Yes - I think I got in a hurry and sloppy in editing the quote.

Thanks

Dan I know you did the bonding on your ERA, is it worth the money saved?

Of course you have to dissassemble nearly all the assembly that ERA does in the first place but if your buying it unpainted you would probably be doing so anyway. After that bonding the body and chassis was really fairly simple. I have the impression that since ERA revised their body a few years ago, the process has become much simpler. There are sufficient alignment plates and screws installed by ERA that it would be almost impossible to not get it aligned right in the bonding process. I bought a 2-part epoxy and empty caulking tubes for a caulk gun. I mixed up the epoxy and loaded it in the tubes and applied it to the bond joints that way. The only place I was a little puzzled was at the rocker panels as the manual (from memory) says to bond it in one place and I think refers to sealing it in another. The rockers do rivet to the the frame tube installed for that purpose, and after that I used a caulk gun to run a heavy bead of epoxy in on top of the tube and down on the rivets to firm everything up. Then I kind of trowled/spread a marine adhesive/sealant into the crevis along the bottom side.

Far worse than the bonding is all the riveting. A pneumatic rivet gun will probably save one from carpal tunnel syndrome and one from Harbor Frieght will work fine. It takes a week of evenings to drill all the rivet holes also and many of them go into the frame metal so it's some pretty heavy drilling activity. The aluminum panels are punched for virtually all of the rivet holes so there is no mystery as to where to drill. Figure on going through a bunch of bits depending on the quality you buy. I applied marine sealant to all panels and joints and riveted panels in for probably a period of at least 3 weeks working week ends and a few evenings. I drilled out the rivet holes before painting but did 98% of the riveting after paint. There are a few rivets that go in at the time of bonding (nose, rocker panels, firewall).

Dan

Adding to what Dan said, my ERA is #778, after the major upgrade. Bonding the body is not a difficult job at all. It's more straight forward than the method described in the manual (Bob, are your reading? The manual is out of date on this!) The biggest challenge is that you need several friends to help you twice during the process: to lift the body off the frame, and to drop it back on.

I had several things I wanted to do to the car myself that worked out much better by having the car completely disassembled. I painted the underside of the body and did some polishing on some of the aluminum panels. The pneumatic riveting tool from Harbor Freight is a MUST!

To me, doing the bonding was the right choice, plus it saved me some money that I could use elsewhere!

There's no bonding on the Unique car. It goes together more conventionally, I think.

One other comment> Take a look at the assembly manuals offered by both. There is a lot to be learned just by reading through both of them.

Good luck!

778 Ive read the Unique manual and assembly seems fairly simple and straitforward on thier car. Ive yet to read the ERA manual.

If this is the Unique manual you're talking about http://www.uniquemotorcars.com/AssemblyManual.pdf then there is no comparison. Here's the link to the "free" ERA Manual: http://www.erareplicas.com/freeman/fia.pdf The real thing is better but, I think, you have to pay a token fee to see it (or else buy an ERA ;) ).

I was wondering how long it would for this to come up. I considered strongly the Unique product before I bought an already completed replica, and their online manual was one of the "red flags" to me until I searched further.

I was assured by a Unique owner that the info that accompanied the kit was much more detailed, but have never seen it.

I suspect it is much as the situation with the ERA manual...a brief overview online to get you interested, the real deal after "...the deal" is sealed.

I like a company who will sell you their full build manual before you order a kit, then give you credit for it when you order. Hurricane use to be that way, I bought a build manual directly from the corporate headquarters. It goes a long way toward convincing me I can complete the kit...or not. Should be standard practice in the industry, IMHO...

While I don't have a horse in this race, I see very clearly the similarities between the two companies in terms of approach to customers and dedication to quality.

Cheers!

Dugly :cool:

Thanks for the link Patrick, ERAs websight is extensive, everytime I think Ive seen everything on it, theres another link to follow. Oh and Patrick your soundbite of your 428 rowing through the gears is my ringtone on my phone thanks for that too. :cool:

No, I think the only real difference is that the pictures are removed in the free manual, but all the same text is still there. Even with all pictures removed, the free manual is still 139 pages long.

Thanks. Now if you'd kindly send a PM to ERA CHAS by clicking here: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/priv...=newpm&u=18467 and tell him that I'm great, I'd certainly appreciate it.;)

Patrick is correct, the photos are the only difference with the ERA on-line manual. Just keep in mind that there are a lot of photos and diagrams that really add clarity to the manual, but at least the text will give you an idea of how detailed the manual is. Equally important are the on-line manual supplements, which are also quite extensive. Scroll down on ERA's home page and you'll see the links.

Regards,

Kevin

The PatrickT Rule: There is only one assembly manual that counts and that is worth the paper (or Internet space) that it's printed on. And there is only one manual that will ever be written by any Cobra replica manufacturer since no other company or person will accept the task and challenge of completing an assembly manual. ERA Rules!

BTW, Patrick could you please write the update on section that has to do with "Bonding the ERA Body." It appears that the vaunted ERA manual is outdated. :LOL:

AFAIK, SPF's, CSX's, BDR's and KMP's don't have manuals and people still purchase and enjoy those cars. So, please don't base your decision on a manual or lack thereof.

... and people bought the Chevette, Gremlin, Pinto, and Yugo as well. If you're going to drop a chunk 'o change that is approaching (or passing) six figures for a lot of those cars, you're damn well entitled to a service manual. And the folks at the respective companies need to get off their fat asses and write quality manuals for their cars (or complete the ones they've started). It is simply inexcusable.

I'd agree that this shouldn't be the sole criteria, but a good manual should at least be a huge check mark in the plus column. For example, in the section on adjusting brakes in the ERA manual - "Because the front brake wheel cylinders require more fluid than the rears, the balance bar is always set up with the outside push-rod 1/4" longer than the inside one" So now I not only know how to make the adjustment, but understand exactly why. Assembling the car should be fun and documentation makes it easier. That's worth something to some of us.

Regards,

Kevin

Most folks don't assemble or service their car (beyond the basics) and thus have no need for a manual. What would a Nincompoop like me do with an service/assembly manual other than to use it to prop a door open. I say know your customer base.

There are 99 Cobra buyers like me for every one like DanEC.

CSX, KMP, SPF and BDR have successfully sold thousands of Cobra replicas without a manual.

ERA's, KMP's, SPF's, BDR's, etc. are all great cars, but my purchase decision and DanEC's purchase decisions were different. He's assembling an ERA and enjoys the process. I'm no DanEC. I just want my car to look and run good. Anything more than tuneups and oil changes, I'll take my car back to an experienced shop.