Still need help on Hurst linkage for Toploader
 

Still trying to hook up this used Hurst shifter and linkage I bought and I've pretty much got it figured out except for the reverse rod. I double checked all the shift arm and rod part numbers against a Hurst parts list I downloaded off of ERA's website and they all check out correctly. The Toploader was rebuilt by Keith Craft. I can't see any way the reverse rod is going to connect to the shifter. The rod looks stock and unmolested but it bends the wrong direction. I've tried it with the transmission in reverse and neutral and in neither position is it going to hook up to the shifter. Here are some pictures I took one with the trans in reverse and one with everything in neutral.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...0Cobra/058.jpg
In neutral

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...0Cobra/059.jpg
In reverse

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...0Cobra/061.jpg
In neutral

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...0Cobra/060.jpg
In reverse

The rod has a slight upward bend in it where it needs to have a downward bend to clear the shift arm boss immediately to the rear of it. This whole thing was pulled off of a running car by one of the Forum members and boxed up and sent to me. It should just fall into place on my car. Before I clamp the rod in a vise and start bending it does anyone see anything I'm missing???? I've checked all the rod numbers, trans arm numbers, direction of the shift arms and direction of the rod ends. Doesn't make sense - I must be missing something elementary.

Thanks

Dan

That "stock unmolested" rod has been cut apart and welded back together with that big sleeve.

Yes, that's what I see also........could it be the shifterlinkage was on a longer tail trans. and then converted to this trans.,thus cutting and welding the shift linkage rods????

They are certainly not "stock unmolested" shift linkage rods......

David

here are a couple of pictures of a shifter mounted with the linkage all hooked up.........

the pics I have are in the wrong format,Dan, I'll send them to you in an email......
very good shots of the linkage and how it attaches/fits......
David

Hmmm - interesting. Figured it was some sort of Hurst reinforcing at an area of bending stress. They sure did a nice job. All 3 of them are the same and sure weren't welded by an amature welder. And this is a short tailshaft transmission. But even if they have been extended for some reason it still carries the correct Hurst part number and doesn't clear the rear shifter boss on the opposite end as currently configured.

Sounds like I just need to clamp in my vice and make it fit.

Cut down in length makes sense. With a short tailshaft (actually mid-length tailhousing - not the real short one) and they seem about right in length - there wouldn't have been any reason to extend them. They are really well done - look like factory fabrication - had me fooled. I'm use to GM transmission stuff and figured it was some odd Ford stuff from Hurst. Looks like"unmolested" was an unfortunate choice of words on my part.

To the bench vise.

Dan,sent you a PM.........

David

Aside from my dumb comment on "unmolested' shift rods I finally figured out that although this is a Hurst Shifter that normally is installed with the reverse transmission lever extending up - these rods were fabricated/modified/whatever, for the reverse arm to extend down. That way the action to shift into reverse is the same as depicted on a stock Ford shift knob for a stock Ford shifter. Pretty sneaky.

Also, after thumbing through my ERA manual (Bob has reminded me several times that I need to read the manual) I found that most of the time the stock Hurst shift rods have to be modified for the car in order to mount the shifter in the postion ERA recommends. So. . . considering the quality of the work/welds on the shift rod modifications I'm now suspecting they were probably done in-house by ERA. I know the shifter/linkage came off of another ERA car. It's mounted and all is now well.

Thanks

Here is a little different spin on the situation. I did this for my T10, no rattles, NO slop:

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...re_220__2_.jpg

Nice Rick-steel or aluminum tube?

Stainless tubing.

Thanks Rick-nicely done. No steel bushings needed.