FE engine choices - down to two
 

I ordered an ERA 427 and expect it to be delivered in Oct or Nov. I am pretty much down to two FE engine options:

(1) Pond/aluminum 427/482 SO with Edelbrock heads (CNC ported), Scat cast crank, Scat H-beam rods, and excellent components/build throughout. It would be roughly 600/600.

(2) I have an option to buy from a very reputable seller a newly completed engine built by a top builder. It is an original and previously unbored 427/454 SO with Shelby heads, a steel crank, and a sidewinder intake. I don't have the details on all of the other components but I will get them soon. Power is likely 500/500. Lets assume the cost and quality of the build is the same as (1).

The advantages of (1) are lower weight, more power and torque, and less maintenance because it's hydraulic. The advantages of (2) are originality, cosmetics, and the great sound of a solid lifter engine. Since I am in California, there may also be an advantage of an original block in the registration process (may not need to do SB100).

This will be a street car only driven 1,500 miles per year, +/-, and rarely if ever raced. I want the car to be original looking, but not necessarily correct down to every nut and bolt. Lastly, I sort of think even 500/500 in a 2400# car is borderline insane - even with good tires like Avons.

What do you think between these two options, and why? Any info on CA registration, SB100 vs 1965 block also would be appreciated.

Thanks!
-Lippy

Lippy, you are going to get many opinions. Mine would be to go for the new engine. When I got my car it had a 427 SO in it. It overheated and developed a crack in one of the cylinders. Upon inspection the walls were very thin. It had been bored .030 over. I then had Keith Craft build me an engine using a 428 FE block. After 10,000 miles the intake manifold gasket leaked and it hydro-locked and broke a cylinder wall out plus other stuff. Again upon inspection the wall was very thin. I then ask Eric at Performance Engineering in Ross, Ohio to build another using a 427/428 FE block. After 3 tries he found a block that looked good. He machined it and upon inspecting it found a small crack had developed. After this, he and I agreed to go with a Genesis iron block. So far so good. Again, maybe I just had a run of bad luck.

The fact that your car is a replica would dictate to me that a Pond 427/482 would be the best fit for your Cobra. You might check out Jon Kaase's amazing engines as well.
In any case, have fun with the build...

Glenn

Unless you inspected the original block before it was assembled, go new.

I would vote for the Pond engine. Save the 40+ year old blocks for the purists.

You will have more fun and performance with the "new" engine.

Just my opinion; it's your car and do what feels right!

Have fun.

Russell

Neither choice will make a difference for SB100. :cool:

Not true. The vintage block will not make anything easier for you during registration. You will use "year of manufacture" that the car replicates (1965) in order to gain the smog exemption and sticker.

BTW, a Pond block is a reproduction of the original block with casting numbers. With the Pond block painted, there is no difference in appearance.

Bottom line: You will still need to go through the SB100/SPCNS process with your new ERA.

EDIT: Rodney beat me to it.

Oh and I opted for the aftermarket alloy block since they claim to be stronger and they're definitely lighter. Modern engineering was my choice. And while you will get an argument from some folks like Patrick for the solid lifter cam, I'd rather have the modern engineering of the hydraulic roller cam.

Notwithstanding, either choice works for me. Is there a money difference?

And succinct, too. :D

Call Blykins, have him build you as asphalt eating 482 and don't look back.:D

Not this time, I don't think he's a solid lifter type guy. I say "new block, hydraulic lifters" please.:cool:

Lippy, with that build, unless I saw a receipt or some sort of proof, I'd bet that the crank in that engine is a factory 428 crank. Which means that it isn't steel, it's cast. I say that because 454 is what you get when a 427 block is married to a 428 crank. If it is some high zoot aftermarket stroker crank, why did they only stroke it that far? To take it all the way out to 482 with the same type aftermarket parts wouldn't cost any more.

With that in mind, build #1 would be far superior to #2 in quite a few ways. I'd call it a no brainer.

^^^ He's right-get better info from seller about that crank or pass.

No. 1 clearly. I am surprised how many people just think of the savings in weight when it comes to a iron block made in the 1960's to 70's versus a aluminum block made in 2000's. Certainly there has had to be some other major advancements including on top of the weight savings in the last 40 to 50 years; machining, the properties of the metal itself, clearance, endurance and far more many things to think of. I don't know of Pond's reputation, but clearly, its an advanced engine and its durability and maintenance should be given a much higher weight than to how it sounds versus an unknown build to #2 espescially given its HP. After you hit the ignition switch, they all sound great.

They say there is no replacement like displacement, but I always add there is nothing better than the peace of mind of reliability/durability.

The real reasons for the modern castings are the thicker decks which keep cylinders rounder, longer and improved and cleaner, slag-free water jackets and oil galleries. Plus you can go bigger in bores.
Pond's stuff goes into NHRA record-holders. They're total overkill for what's common usage here.

If you get a new aluminum 427/482 from a reputable builder , then I`m betting they all use Ponds blocks , unless it`s a Shelby block . If these guys use his stuff .... `nuff said about his reputation and quality .

(1) is a new Pond 427/482. (2) is an original 427 block with Shelby heads, stroked to 427. Cost is about the same.

I think you mean stroked to 454 for #2.

Before making any final decisions, I'd want to hear about what camshaft (and specs), intake, carbs, oil pan, water pump, balancer, flywheel, etc. are installed, if any. High quality components may swing my vote one way or another.

There are many folks here on the board who only want a vintage engine like a sideoiler or nothing else. They have their fans. What sideoiler block is used? I'm not a FE expert, but is it an early 1965-66 solid lifter block, a little later 1968 hydraulic lifter block or a much later over-the-counter replacement?

Certainly the earlier blocks are valued more and may swing my vote one way or another, but considering the cost difference of the engines (zero), I'd likely still opt for modern engineering.

Go new! Beats the old technology hands down. You have a replica so original motor that doesn't have the HP/Tork of the new one and probably leaks oil and runs hot isn't worth the trip. Remember Ford made them side oilers as they kept blowing up on the NASCAR tracks.......