Radiators for Cobras ?
 

Ok, I know there's threads on radiators, but our cobras have them far back from the nose that it's harder to get air in at slow speeds.

I have the Griffin that Lone Star Classic uses. It works ok, but is there better ?

With my first fairly high performance built FE engine, it never ran over 215 degrees in hot weather & traffic, which was just fine. Spal fan & shroud with a adjustable temp probe in the fins worked well.

I wish I remembered the guy I spoke with a few years back, that said the radiator and fan he found best, was like out of a 1990's mid-size Chevy car that he found at a junk yard for around $50. No further information.

So, here's some questions. And please explain why,... with your answers !

What works the best ?

What brand ?

How many cores, 2-4 ?

Brass, aluminum, steel etc ?

Racing type, aftermarket aimed for Hot Rods/customs, or stock daily driver ?

Stand up straight or tilted back and why ? (BIG QUESTION, as some say if tilted back, air flows over the fins better, thus cooling better)

50/50% antifreeze, less, or none at all, but using a conditioner ?

I guess we could also chat about the type of fan/fans that work best, since it's of course a major factor of cooling. The shroud is also a key to cooling.

Brand ?

Single, double ?

How much cfm ?

Straight or curved blades, "s" blades ?

Is the noise of high cfm a factor to you ? (it can drive you crazy) :JEKYLHYDE

Feel free to add to the list of questions !

They radiator that I used came from a 1970 Chevy Chevelle big block. It's brass 3 row and top/bottom tanks. I mounted it at an angle and I have a large puller fan. The pump is aluminium high volume with no thermostat just a restrictor plate. Works fantastic never a problem under any condition. I know they say a cross flow tank works better but I have never had a problem.

Kev, take this one to the bank...

Don't waste your time on ANY OEM radiator. IT WON'T WORK!!!

1) Dump your Griffin with the 3" core (600hp rated) and get the same size Griffin with
the 3 1/2" core (800hp rated) This is the best radiator you can use.

2) Get the Taurus (89 to 90 3.8L motor) 2 speed fan/shroud assembly. "Carve" the shroud
to fit and mount to radiator. Ensure the inlet of the radiator is shrouded too. If you don't
you'll recirc hot air from the engine compartment at idle.

3) Buy the "Hollister Road" Taurus fan control relay pack plus the 180 deg and 195 deg
sensors.

4) install the 180 sensor in the intake manifold. Solder a bung in your radiator expansion
tank and install the 195 deg sensor in there.

5) Ensure you have a 140+ amp alternator as the Taurus fan on high speed draws 40+
amps. Also, your Lone Star wiring is inadequate and isn't worth the copper it took
to make it. I run #8 wire to the fan control and #2 wire from the alternator to the battery and fuse block.

I always had an overheat problem at idle until I did this. Now at idle in 100 deg weather it runs 180-190 deg all day long.

If you ever get around to building the big motor you want this will become a REQUIREMENT.

Give me a call for additional details...

Dave

My OEM radiator measures 26x18 core size and like I said it is a top/bottom tank and 3 row. I also have a 16x8 B&M cross link oil cooler,works great.