Engine is out_need some guidance
 

Engine is out of the car-thinking about this opportunity to upgrade a few things:

BDR #1061-Car has a TKO600, engine I will have should be around 550 HP according to Ford Racing, 351/427 Alum hydro roller. I want to get the best clutch set up I can for street use and given that I will be getting a long block, I have a blank canvas as far as everything "bolt on". The Master cylinder went bad at 800 miles BDR sent me a Wilwood master but I still have the original slave (which has no name on it), the clutch has a red housing with no name on it either.

Basically, if you were in my shoes and wanted the best of everything from the carb to the fuel pump, to the headers what would you do in order to ensure you had good stuff under your hood. Consider that this will be carb set up so no need go FI. Is a Mckleod set up worth it? Elec fuel pump? Upgraded radiator-I have an alum Behr currently. Best pulley set up (I have the 2" alum set up-cant remember the manufacture but there wa a thread that they tore up alternators-the pulleys have an "M" engraved on them-though it could be a "W":eek:

I appreciate any insight on this-I really want the best for reliability not bling factor-thx again! gary

What is the capacity and number of cores of your existing radiator. I have the centerforce clutch with 500 hp 520 tq and no issues with 5400 on the clock.

Gary, here's how I would attack it...

Quick Fuel Q-850 carb...

Aeromotive pump and regulator....

For the clutch, you're going to be at around 575-600hp, so you'll need something to hold it in case you ever bolt on some sticky tires. If you don't mind the possibility of chatter, the RAM Powergrip HD is an awesome clutch. If you want something with the manners of a new VW, then I would reach for a McLeod RST twin disc.

RAM & McLeod are the two top clutch brands in my opinion. I would stay away from Spec, Zoom, Centerforce, Hays, etc.

The first question is, how did the car perform before you pulled the engine out? Did the cooling system work appropriately? Was the carb getting plenty of fuel? Did the clutch slip? Don't "upgrade" parts just because you have them out. Upgrade those parts that didn't meet your needs, and keep the one's that worked just fine.

The second question is, how many miles on the car? if there's only 1,000 miles on the car, no sense changing much of anything. But if the car has 10,000 hard miles, now's a great time to replace the clutch, because a clutch change is a big job. But a fuel pump change is pretty simple, and doesn't take much time.

If the car has a lot of miles and the pulleys are fine, leave them alone.

Listen to Bob,he spot on, don't change parts to be changing parts, keep the ones that worked well, change the ones that didn't.....don't over engineer your car.......

David

No need for a troublesome electric fuel pump.

+100, when was the last time you heard of a stock type mechanical pump going out?????
And how many times you've seen posts here about electric pumps going out??????

I've had a Carter street/strip pump on my Mustang since 1997, and the same pump on my race car from day one, neither have failed so far........

David

Although I totally agree that mechanical pumps tend to be more reliable, I saw a diaphragm fail and pump a gallon of gasoline into the oil and destroy the engine (Chevy). So they are not perfect. Also the higher pressure of an electric pump can help resolve vapor lock issues.

Well, it was just a chevy engine!!!:):LOL:
But all in all,a mechanical pump is more reliable and less expensive than an elelctrical pump and easier to install....

I tend to adhere to the KISS method when working on cars.....

David

I've used these pumps for many years with no issues. One of the best mechanical pumps on the market. For mainly street use, I will never go back to electric pumps. If I were just drag racing, yes, go electric.

351 engine(550 HP)= $175
Can be upgraded later to an 1100HP for $100

Welcome to RobbMc Performance Products

Thx everyone-I appreciate the feedback!

Bob-I should have been more descriptive, the car has only 2300 miles on it. I lost a lifter and things went bad...lost the cam as well. Still have not heard from FR as to specifically what else happened such that they are giving me a new engine altogether. So, I figured since everything is apart (including the clutch and evrything else, I would spend the extra money to upgrade parts were it made sense based on the fact that I bought a car which was 100% built by others (BDR/Speed Fanatics) and did not use what I would consider to be "high end" parts in every application. For instance, the clutch master was a cheap one-it went bad and leaked fluid all over my foot and I lost my clutch in the middle of the Pine Barrens of NJ. They sent me a Wilwood replacement and it was clearly a better piece of equipment.

Once I "sorted out" the car (which included changing the intake manifold-it was machined poorly from Edelbrock @ the T housing and leaked no matter what I did, put the new one on and it was fine). Replaced the distributor with the taller model as the one it came with just touched the Victor Jr as it was the standard height model...this is just the engine stuff, I will leave out the "sorting out" I had to do on the car itself!!!:eek: The thing ran/performed great, to your point....don't fix it if it aint broke, I agree. But, since the work needs to be done anyway at this point, I want to be sure that I don't bolt on parts that are not top end just because they have not failed...YET.

Thx again!

I'm no expert here, but here is what I would look at:

1. Is the starter motor a quality one or from China? Same question of the alternator.
2. Are you pleased with the headers? Are they port matched?
3. I assume the "M" on the pullies mean "March", so they should be good.
4. Do you want to replace any rubber hoses with braided steel?
5. Are you pleased with the routing of wires, hoses, brake/clutch lines? Are there any issues with the bay that are easier to deal with while its vacant?

Have fun,
Randy...