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Lippy,
You are correct. Harder to install. You also do not want to use stainless rivnuts with stainless bolts/screws. Most of the time it causes galling and then you cant remove the screws/bolts. Or if you can, sometimes it damages the threads. TKB, Olander is the place where you can get almost anything but they are a bit more expensive. You can get self clenching hardware from McMaster-Carr also but not as high of minimum purchase. We buy quite a bit of Pem hardware and quite a bit of other types from many different sources. |
How thick are the aluminum panels in an ERA?
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Since all our tunnels are pre-drilled for rivets (and the pattern is fairly close), I don't think anything larger than a #10 screw is useful.
The "balance" between stainless steel, plated steel and aluminum material for the riv-nuts is ease of installation. Aluminum is easiest, but is more likely to gall or cross-thread with stainless steel screws. I would go with plated steel inserts myself. That's what we use in several other places on the car. But we have a $1000 installation tool... |
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Terry … You are most likely correct, Olander might be a bit more expensive. However, the past several times I have been at Olander, there was no minimum purchase amount for cash. I believe there is a $10 or so minimum if a credit card is used. I like that one can buy a small quantity of different sizes, because sometimes it's hard to know what will work and they almost always have what you need. Best to go with a list of what you want, and they can make suggestions as needed. Always good to shop around. |
lippy,
For the transmission tunnel side panel, first I carefully drilled out the holes to the correct size for the pem nuts, without bending the flange. Don't try to drill out too much at one time, or it might catch and bend the flange. Then I laid the side panel down on a bench, so the under-side of the top flange faced up. With the PEM nuts in position, I used a hammer to gently tap them into place, it was very easy to do. For a panel already attached to the car, a different technique would be needed. Once the hole size is correct, one might be able to use a 'C' clamp and a few scraps of wood or parallel jaw pliers to seat the PEM nuts. However, always best to experiment on some scrap sheet metal the same thickness as in the car, before attempting it on a Cobra. Perhaps some of the other guys that have used PEM nuts have other suggestions. All that being said, always keep in mind that the sage advice of Bob P. is hard to beat … :cool: http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...psb59aacd8.jpg http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...psf50c5663.jpg |
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TKB, The nice thing about Olander is if you are in the Bay Area they are right there when you need something and they have about everything under the sun. The people there are very knowledgeable and Olander has been around for years. With McMaster-Carr, you might have to wait a day or two. At work we deal mainly with DB Roberts for all of our Pem needs, but we buy them 5K-10K at a time. |
I spent a good part of the night on the McMaster Carr website. Looks like I have to go with 10-32 to get the material and type/size of cap screw I want (they don't have it in 10-24). So for the extra $10 or so I might as well get some Rivnuts (standard, not ribbed, steel) and some Pemnuts and see what works best.
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