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Toploader shift fork shaft o-ring leaking
Not getting much action over in Transmission tallk. Does anyone know if the o-rings on Toploader shift fork shafts are replaceable without completely dissassebling the entire transmission? I have one that seems to be leaking.
Dan |
Completely rebuilt two top loaders but more than 15 years ago.It would certainly make sense that you probably do have to pull it apart the shafts have to slide inward.Still just guessing.Good Luck
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Give David Kee transmissions a call, I'm sure they would be able to recommend how best the change the seals.
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As I recall, to be able to get the shafts out the gear set has to be removed as MDRoss1 guessed above. You "might" be able to slide the shaft back into the case far enough to use a small shepherds hook to remove and reinstall a new o-ring, but you run the risk of nicking it.
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Gotta pretty much tear down the whole thing, especially if it's the reverse fork o-ring.
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Got to take it apart. It isn't that bad, but the first time sucks as you feel like you are going to FU something. AND, use grease to hold the rollers in place on the reassembly.
Did mine four times - each time something new. SOOOOoo....get the kit from David. Tru |
Well it's in the car so I'm not looking for a major dissassembly project right now. I may make some sort of a foam rubber packing to go on the shaft on the ouside under the lever for now and hope that at least slows it down. Since it's freshly rebuilt I want to drive it first as my experience with rebuilt transmissions is that something usually gets overlooked the first time.
Thanks. |
Look at it this way as we old Harleys riders used to,by your car leaving it's mark.Our joke was seeing the oil below the primary covers was "Yup she needs an oil change" or "Lets run um looks like the oil is still good"the scary one was with no oil puddle" "Something is wrong!"
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Our "motto" with MGs (works for other British cars, too) is that if it's not leaking oil, there's no oil in it.
Of course, a toploader should be relatively bulletproof. Hope your problem proves to be temporary--it may even correct itself as you drive it. Stranger things have happened. |
I'm a litte surprised by the leak. i've only installed the transmission and fired the engine up sitting in my garage. The oil fill port appears to be at a level below the shifter arm shafts. If it were a Muncie I could just drain it and pop the side cover off. But yeah - I'm kind of use to my old cars wanting to mark their territory from one place or the other. I'm just glad that so far the motor is holding tight.
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i'd make an attempt to put an o ring between the shift lever and the case, might have to put a thin washer against the lever if there is not enough material for the o ring to ride against, possibly slow down the aggravation. i don't know the exact situation though, just back seat driving.
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That might hold it off for a while. Try to use a fatter one that willl squish as you put the shift dawg and nut on.
Let us know what you end up with. Tru |
A rubber or closed foam o-ring on the outside is kind of my contingency plan for right now. thanks
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Yep, just went through this a month or so ago. The oil had been leaking and then running down the frame rail to the rear of the car. And yep, the trans has to come out and be gutted to do it right. I had a shop do it and they photographed the whole process. My nice new leather seats removed, then trans tunnel removed to get to it. Kind of like watching sausage being made.:eek:, but not a drop anymore from there. Of course, the FE still has it's issues with leaks, but I resigned to that years ago.;)
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