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http://http://www.clubcobra.com/foru...ictureid=10125
This is the edge after tape removal http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=10126 After wiped with a microfiber towel-Notice the orange peel is nearly gone. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=10128 Cleaned and 14hrs post application. |
A repost of the edge of 3m defender after tape removal
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=10125 It cleaned up using a microfiber towel |
Beastly, sold me. I'll be going to my local friendly Auto Zone to get a can and a spray handle. I, too, don't see the value of their "installation kit". I've got plenty of painters' tape, plastic drop cloth, and silicone based wax. I'm most concerned about the rear fender bulges and the snout area. Good to hear that it "touches up" well. Thanks for the info.
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Just so everyone knows I have no stake in the 3m company!! I just thought I would give it try.
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Hi Beastly,
I read that the tape edge should be the last thing sprayed and the tape removed immediately. Good that you were able to smooth it out. I'm interested in your repair test. Did you mean that you tore a piece of the film off and then resprayed the area - getting some spray on the film that was still there as well as the bare area? And it filled in with no seam? That would be pretty cool if it is that forgiving. Regards, Kevin |
I thought I was smarter than the instructions- On my first test I tried the wet removal of tape but the edge seemed to wander and I did not think it would stick as well as it did to the tape. The edge was easily cleaned up-though in hindsight I would recommed removing the tape before allowing to fully dry.
The test tear and respray filled in the valley- The product seems to flow really well (though very slowly) The only thing I noticed was a bit more orange peel look to the area were two coats overlapped. |
Kevin
Just reread your question- Hopefully this helps- I tore a section and then resprayed over the exposed area and the remaining product. When it dried the edge of the two were areas was not easliy identified. But you could see it. I sprayed heavy on the area where it was removed and a light coat on the remainder. It just seemd to have more orangepeal on the area where the coats overlapped. Not sure why. Sorry did not take pics of the panel:( |
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Well I just did my car with the 3M Defender. NOT A HAPPY GUY! Everything is pretty much straight forward and what Beastly said. Splatter?? Drips falling off can. At one point I didnt realize the stuff was running down the side of the can and plop! I read the directions and it said NOT to try and fix it, it will level out. I dont think its gonna happen with these drips. I may have to start all over again. Not sure. The tape came right off perfectly. Nice and smooth line. Here are some pics......
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This looks like a no brainer to me. I only want protection on front of the rear fenders and *maybe* the lower part of the front of the car, below the grille opening. If this works then I'll be ahead of the game. If not, then I'll be out $30-50 and have a pro do at least the rear fenders.
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bump!!
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i had it professionally applied .it took a master several hours and he also used a special steamer. i did the front and two rear quarters , cost 300 , not bad after a 10k paint job.
he did an amazing job , its also a mirror quality paint finish , no bubbles , orange peel or runs. =they had applied some of the film to an old door and asked me to throw a hammer at it...amazing didnt scratch the paint! |
I see you guys are going up pretty far up, and that is good. I had the 3 M film installed on my car in 2007 still looks good, no yellowing good protection so far 18,000+ miles and track use. I just wish that it was farther up the hood and higher on the flares on the front fenders. All the patina (rock chips) are above the film. I guess thats what you get from driving and enjoying, smiles and miles!
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3M/Paint defender spray film Part Number: 90000 Availability: Ships within 1-2 business days. This item is no longer available. Please remove the item before proceeding to checkout. |
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Just finished the nose of my GT40 with 3M Defender. Product exceeded my expectations. Tips for good results are:
1. Do a test area first to get feel for spraying and coverage. It does peel off easily. 2. DON'T FORGET TO WAX FIRST 3. Wait 2-3 minutes between each of the 3 coats. This minimizes run risk. 4. If nozzle spits stop immediately and clean nozzle. I only had this happen once and it still blended in when it cured. 5. Let cure in shade for about 1hr. so material can level out. Then roll into sun for rest of cure. Mine cured in 2 hours at 75 degrees. Is this as good as adhesive film? Probably not, but at $25 I was amazed it looks as good. As far as chip protection time will tell. |
Dave:
I'll have to take a look at your application when we get to Denver on Saturday. Sounds like it worked out well for you. DonC |
This stuff is ridiculously easy and looks good. The first photo is prep, the second is right after it went on, and the third is after about five hours (seems dry, but I don't want to touch it). All I did was clean the area with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, use the wax supplied with the Paint Defender, and sprayed it on. As someone else mentioned, since this is a narrow area, I just did up and down, and not side-to-side. I'm really happy with the results. I probably won't apply any on the front, but I'm still considering maybe the very lower part near the oil cooler. Considering the cost of this product, I'm really glad I didn't go right to the professionally applied stuff. If this doesn't hold up I can still do it and only be out $25.
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2840/9...04e5ed24_c.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5537/9...58e06332_c.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/9...88a1a1e8_c.jpg |
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