Cooling Suggestions
 

I'm getting ready to swap out my 351w to a 427 with about 515hp. I have an older single pass, double row aluminum radiator now. I've been told this will not be enough radiator for the new engine. I'm looking for suggestions from you guys on a good radiator and fan to adequately handle the new motor and the additional heat. I appreciate any input you can provide. Thanks

Greg,
Read this on using the Taurus fan and shroud. There are probably more posts on this subject.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/cont...7676-fans.html

Whatever you end up with for a radiator don't skimp on the shroud to insure that any air coming into the front of the car goes through the radiator. Any number of posts about how important it is as an integrated part of the cooling system.
DonC

I had this company to build a radiator for a B&B last year.
Great price and product. They are a large factory located in Alabama.

Dwight


http://www.cgj.com/shop/radiators/an...ance-radiators

I'm using an older single pass double row radiator, built by Griffin. I use a large Spal fan, and a stock Mustang shroud. I run 25% anti-freeze, 75% tap water, and a bottle of Water Wetter.

My engine makes around 600 dyno proven hp; 514hp on the chassis dyno. The only time I have trouble with heat is in stop and go traffic, when the temps are near 100*. It's never actually overheated, but temps can climb up to 210-215*.

BobC

Any chance I can get the core measurements from you. Just need the dimensions of core itself, height, width and thickness. We may have the same radiator. Mine is an older Griffin, single pass, double row. If they are the same I may just go with what you are running.

Thanks,

Greg

This is OEM on any Shelby No compromise here......best of the best

Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator 62 68 Shelby AC Cobra 63 64 | eBay

It's about 20" x 27". It's a replacement part for a stock Mustang.

Agree with Rick, the Fluidyne in my CSX4000 is great. I think I will add an aluminum two piece shroud from Nick at Acton

Rick, that has already been suggested to him but I guess it didn't come from the "right people":rolleyes:

What's your problem John? I'm just weighing all options. I ask questions and write down and research each and every one of them. Your comment is uncalled for especially since you don't know where I'm at on any decision. I don't ask questions for the sake of asking them and I treat every suggestion with respect since I'm a newbie and everyone knows more than I do. So how about you keeping yours to yourself unless you actually know the what you're talking about.

Greg I'm not going to air it out here but keep in mind this is a relatively small group of hobbyist and enthusiasts. No matter how many different forms you post in, your pretty much talking to the same group of guys who keep giving you the same answers that you keep asking. What is it you expect? Guys give you their opinions on this and that , then you go trash talking them as though they didn't have a clue as to what they were telling you. Like you say, you are all new to this and the guys that are making suggestions and recommendation, taking the time to answer your questions deserve a little respect. This ain't my first rodeo.

It's not all about the radiator
 

GregAgrest Greg most radiators will do the job of cooling if,
1 have a good cooling fan to pull the air through the opening of the car. Have to remember that over 50 mph the fans are no help and the speed of the car takes over.
2 Getting the hot air out of from under the engine compartment. If your car has louvers in the fenders add a couple of 4" marine fans to help at idle. 2 fans, wiring , relay, and switch, about $100.00 dollars. 640 cfm of air flow.10-15 degree drop under hood. I run 2 for motor compartment and 1 for trans tunnel to cool trans
3 Raping headers with heat rap. This is not cheap but also helps. I have the same rap on my car for 15 years. It has not rotted out the header tubes. My tubes where hot coated from ERA and this helps also to keep heat where you want it.
4 Radiator angle, Best mounting is straight up and down for max flow over fins. Some companies have the reclined setup. The air doesn't like to bent going through the radiator. ERA has a wind splitter to help bent the air into the radiator for better cooling. Side note, I like the 2 small cooling fans in the front of the opening, bottom line they don't do poop. They take up room, Block air flow, and turn clean air into dirty air. Remove and retest car with and with out. They are cool to look at.
5 Crack the hood any time you stop somewhere to help remove the heat from the motor compartment.
6 You have info about radiators and coolant/water mix.
7 Last, waterpump. Is it a high flow unit. In the old days there was 2 styles, a car with AC and one without. If your water pump has a back cover on it, remove and check for a disc that is welded or rivited to the impellors. THis stops reverse flow and cavitation inside the pump. You can buy a kit for about $12.00 to improve the pump. Last thing PULLEYS. IF you are running march, replace the crankshaft pulley to match the size of the water pump pulley. You want a 1 to 1 ratio. The 30% underdrive is great for cruising and even racing but a idle over heats most motors. Been there done this.
8 Thermostat size. 95% of motors are happy with a 180F unit. The problem with some of these is flow openings. I have been around the block with this on an FE motor. I ended up running a 383-440 Dodge unit. The housing needed to be trimmed but the center opening is almost 1/2" larger than the stock FE one. Add and 1/8" air hole to help remove air in system. Make sure unit is mounted to have hole at top if vertical mounted.

This is all the info you should need to put that monster in the car. You can also add heat shielding but IMO I think it works both ways of helps and causing more of a heat sink than removal. This is an up in the air issue.
Good luck, if spelling is bad, just got glasses and can't see the keyboard:eek::o;):) Rick L.

Greg,

If you have not already done it, remove the fan mounting support that I put on there (I think that it might be hindering more than helping) and get a standard type of fan shroud. Block off all passages of air flow that does not go through the radiator.

This all I have learned since building that car but never had the room/time/energy to make the change.

Just a thought,

The CSX4000/6000 is built with the two pusher fans ( replicates 1965 ). I had a mounting bolt fail ( fatigue failure ) and almost took out the radiator. I have run with and without ( 105 degree ambient ) and concluded they add nothing. They are setting in the garage for the next owner. Rick is right again about the twin pushers looking cool but, my 16 inch puller is all my 427SR needs. Angling of the radiator allows for more square inches of surface area while providing hood clearance. Bottom line for me is that I rarely get above 90 degrees C. in stop and go traffic. I think Rick has checked all the boxes for you.

Thanks to everyone who posted replies on this. I appreciate it and now have a direction to go. To John, no hard feelings, just didn't appreciate what looked like a cheap shot. You know and I know I have not "trash talked" anyone on either forum so please don't go there.

Agreed Greg, no hard feelings. You can give me a call anytime you feel like it if you want. There's a couple things I'd like to make you away of, but the open forums isn't the place.