Steering questions
 

I recently bought a B&B Cobra replica with about 14k miles on the odo. No idea if it was built with new or donor parts, but the quality of components and the workmanship look very good to me. I have noticed that there is some slop in the steering, and it appears to be in the rack itself, which leads me to think that this was a donor part. Notaprob because I don't like the slow steering anyway.

First question: can I rebuild this stock mustang rack with quicker ratio parts, and is that scenario even worth pursuing considering the cost of a new rack?

Second question: Is the Flaming River FR1520 the fastest ratio rack that I can get? Should I be looking elsewhere? This car is light, has only a 289 and I am not too worried about the steering effort.

Third question: Should I be looking at doing anything additional while I am at it? Bumpo steer kits? Or something else that I am not even aware of at this point?

Thanx in advance for all the help that I know I am going to get.

Just get a rebuilt rack that matches what you have. You can turn in the old one as a core. Mustang II racks include power steering, Pinto racks are usually manual. I don't know what you have there, but it shouldn't break the bank.

If you change the ratio from the slowest available to any of the quicker racks the input shaft is different angle/length and the mounting holes are different, talking about manual racks.

Also these cars are skittish as it is .........too fast a rack and you'll be going round and round and round......:):);)

Talk to me about this skittish. Is it just due to the power? Or is there something else going on with these cars? Big tires, adjustable suspension, nearly 50-50 weight distrubution should = great handling. That's one of the things that I wanted to get back to in buying this car.

I see videos of spin outs and other accidents with these cars and have been wondering if it is just because guys get on the loud pedal, get the rears spinning, and not off it and on the clutch again if the car gets squirrelly. Do they only lift off the accelerator and never allow the rears to regain traction? With the suspension and tires, I would think that these would hook up very nicely in a turn, skidpad numbers seem to prove that out. Do they not hook up again on the straight if they lose traction and then the clutch pedal is in?

I grew up driving TR3's big Healeys, various Jags. All of which had pretty fast steering. Maybe 2 1/2 turns lock to lock on the 3? I was surprised, the first time I drove the cobra, at the amount that I had to turn the wheel to get it pointed and the lack of responsiveness in the steering. I now know that the latter is due to the worn rack. Sure would like to get the feel of the sports cars back in the steering, but if it's really not good to change the steering ratio, I certainly wouldn't do it.

My driving is not going to be terribly spirited in this thing. Been there, done that, don't have anything to prove to anybody, and sure don't want to mess up the paint job. This definitely won't go on the track, and won't be pushed hard. Not sure what the hp is, but I don't think that the 289 in it is built too much. Sadly the trail on the car has been lost and I can't get any info on the build.

By the way, I gotta tell all you guys that this site is a great wealth of information. Really appreciate most everything that I have read here and it truly helped me decide to buy one of these great toys.

High power to weight + short wheelbase + over correcting driver = snap spin. Too quick of a ratio will compound this. Things you can do to lessen this from happening: install high performance tires (sticky), get the balance set correctly (understeer), learn your cars limits (autocross). Have fun and be safe!

The very best thing you can do is to go and do a driver training course on a racetrack...like Bob Bondurant or similar.........everything about a Cobra is quick, except when you use the loud pedal....be very carefull here....:):)