| strictlypersonl |
03-05-2014 02:54 PM |
Once the pipes get hot enough, they will "relax" a bit so that it's somewhat easier to remove and refit.
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| lippy |
03-11-2014 10:43 AM |
Well, I tried to remove my driver's sidepipe last night - the one that was a bear to get on. Since this is the one that has a ding on it and I was going to have the Wideband bung welded onto it and recoat the whole thing. I removed the front wheel and wheelwell panel, and had my wife help. This sidepipe is not moving. Not a bit. I even used a flat-faced punch placed on the lip of the collector to drive it in-line and off the headers. Nothing. This thing appears to be on for good, short of cutting it off. I ended up putting it all back together rather than beating the daylights out of it and risk damage to the sidepipe or headers. Now I may have to weld the bung on the passenger sidepipe (I know I can get this one off) - even though it's in perfect condition. Hopefully if I get it TIG welded on the inside and mask and paint the weld with VHT ceramic paint, it won't be noticable.
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| DanEC |
03-11-2014 10:50 AM |
Did you try spraying penetrating oil in the connections? With all of the moment arm resulting from the sidepipe hung on to it - hard to believe that a little twisting down and back up on the end of it wouldn't loosen it up some at the collector.
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| kevins2 |
03-11-2014 12:33 PM |
Lippy,
Sorry to hear you're having trouble getting that pipe off. One thing I'll emphasize is the importance of moving the back end of the pipe around a lot - not just a little. That should go a long way toward loosening up the slip fit.
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| lippy |
03-11-2014 01:26 PM |
Thanks for the tips. I'm just very cautious about moving it too much. I don't want to bend the headers or break the welds. Then I'd have a real problem.
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