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They are a great tool, just don't get hung up on getting to a certain number. Youu can easily find where your car runs good , and then use the gauges as a baseline to troubleshoot when you are having issues
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1be60c9c.jpg I have a gauge for each bank of Weber's. If I could, I've have eight A/F gauges, an altimeter, and who knows what else. You can't have too many gauges. http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps3a8884f3.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps6adadae7.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps3af166c9.jpg Z |
One lingering problem I had was that my plugs were fouling with fuel. It was a tough nut to crack but I finally did. Turns out that with such a big cam, you need to run almost full advance at idle. I purchased a 10 degree MSD bushing from 4secondsflat.com, set my full advance at 36, and my initial at 26, and it solved the problem. At that point I wasn't using the wideband anymore to chase this problem. I left the wideband on just for WOT and tuning about 3k RPM, and I think I got it pretty close. Plugs look good now, even when I cut them apart, and I took the wideband off.
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I just picked up theis thread after doing some researching to solve similar problems to yours. I have just installed a new 468 shelby stroker with dual quads and a fairly large cam/overlap. Runs fine under load, but surges like hell below 2,500rpm, part throttle cruise and runs-on after ignition off. I am considering to get a wideband to help me tune the carb, but your point about increasing the initial timing is interesting. I'm at around 15degrees initial and 36 Total. Did you solve the run-on problem by increasing the initial advance or something else? Thanks Stuart |
Got it in the ballpark with the wideband. But you can get wrapped up in your shorts with too much data, so I took it off when I got close. Drove the car for awhile, cut some of the plugs with a hacksaw for a good read, and the only change since then is leaning out all four jets by one number. Car runs and idles well, and the plugs are clean.
Run on is a different matter. Since my car needs to idle at 1200 to oil the solid rollers, it's prone to run on simply because of the idle speed. I think Chas suggested I put the car in second, put the parking and regular brake on, and let out the clutch slowly to drag down the idle speed. At that point I cut the ignition and let the clutch out fully. Sounds scary but it isn't. Very easy and solves the problem with a racy engine. |
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Hi Lippy,
Just sent you a PM Stuart |
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