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Spare parts for DANA differential - where to get from ?
Hi guys,
My DANA differetial is loosing oil on the front so I think I need to install a new sealing ring....who can help me to find out which parts I need and where to get from...? Thanks, Stephan |
What model Dana?
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Hi Mark IV,
I found these numbers on the cap : DANA 39015 200 6 REV L 3 08 27 92 The differential is in my Kirkham Cobra . On the bottom of the differential is named AUBURN. Does this informations help...? Best, Stephan |
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Unless you put a lot of miles on your Cobra, it would be hard to imagine your front seal would be leaking already unless there is pressure building up in your rear. Might want to check your vent tube to be sure it is clear and relieving excess pressure from your rear.
Bob |
Bob,
I checked the vent tube and its free. As I could see, the vent tube is connected to a small tank which is located in the trunk. The tank is from wilwood an seems to be a tank as used for a brake reservoir. If so, this would mean he's not able to breathe because it' s completely closed.....so the pressure can't get off.... What do you think ? Stephan |
Bob,
I checked the vent tube and its free. As I could see, the vent tube is connected to a small tank which is located in the trunk. The tank is from wilwood an seems to be a tank as used for a brake reservoir. If so, this would mean he's not able to breathe because it' s completely closed.....so the pressure can't get off.... What do you think ? Stephan |
That's a inherent problem with the Kirkham rear end.....
After many hours of racing and testing......here's the fix the right way.... Talk@CobraRegistry.com Morris |
Check pinion play
Stephan427sc Check the pinion play on the diff. If you are doing hard accell and downshifts, you may have loosen the pinion bearing and caused a leak. Dana parts , you can get anywhere. Jag parts, Jeep parts, or any auto store. You need the seal # stamped on the seal to match up. There is about 4-6 different designed seals for the same rearend case. It might be simple to just call Dave and ask for them to send a seal. R&R is a little more intents to do. When you get the seal, make sure it slides on the pinion and seals. Do you have air tools and a puller to do this job?? It's simple to do, takes too much time to type. Leave a number to call you at and will walk you through this. Seals don't just start leaking by themself's. Try Morris repair on breather system and make sure this is fixed before we tackle replacing the seal. Rick L.
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Hi Morris,
thanks for that very interesting article....that explains and Shows the Problem really good. I checked my DANA44 and saw that I only have a vent-line from the Position right upper the pinion. Do you think it could be a good solution to replace the wilwood tank in the trunk into a Moroso oil breather tank so that the diff can breathe....? Stephan |
For those of you that haven't read Morris' tutorial, there is more info in it than you can believe. He takes you through MANY setup questions. The one on front end setup is fantastic.
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redmt
Thanks for the kind words.....and hope that will help others when they get into situations they don't understand ... Stephan Two quick thoughts come to mind.....yes, even though the brake reservoir is vented....it is. Not vented enough......so yes a different catch can that can breath a higher volume of air would be good......also check your fill level.....many Kirkhams used a Dana Rear end cover that was a front diff cover on a Jeep.....and the fill hole is to high for the level of oil....lower the level of oil to the line I show in my photo's......I think it's about the middle of the lower cap bolt..... The fence we built into the cover works especially at high speed usage....many laps at Road America..... |
Quote:
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Hi guys,
Thanks to all of you for your kind help ! Thats why I use and love this forum ! I finally replaced the pinion gear seal and modified the breathing of the differential. Can anyone of you tell me the correct torque for the pinion gear input shaft yoke ? Thanks, Stephan |
it's about drag and torque reading
Stephan427sc Stephan you should of marked the pinion, nut and yoke for a line up. There is not torque reading as per say. It's about loading the pinion bearing s and having the correct back lash when done. If you have the rearend by itself, the drag is 22-25 inch pounds with used bearings and 24-27 inch pound with new bearings under perload. No stub shafts. Use a 1/4 torque wrench and put it on the big nut on the end of the pinion. If back lash is greater than .010" it should be reset up. If you are hard driving, I like the back lash with a posi around .004-.005". If you are just cruising, you can goto .012" and have no problems with wear or noise. Rick L.
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