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I didn't comment on this earlier but should have. If your flywheel is cast iron and you have an OEM bellhousing you might want to minimally invest in a steel flywheel — you only have one set of feet.
Even with a steel flywheel a clutch cover can become a problem which argues for a Lakewood, Quicktime or other bellhousing designed to protect your legs and feet from unexpected clutch and flywheel failures. While not not required to operate your vehicle, both are a good investment to protect yourself, just in case. Ed |
I'm impressed you were able to get ahold of David Kee I've read many posts from people unsuccessfully trying to get in touch with him. He must have started answering his phone again. Good luck with the repairs.
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My parts should arrive tomorrow and I'll begin reassembling. I replaced the pilot bushing even though the old one looked pretty good (it's only $5 and I don't want to have to tear this thing down again) and I have the resurfaced flywheel installed waiting on a clutch.
I've been reading up on the drivetrain installation process in preparation for this, but most of the material is from the perspective of a new build. All the references mention the need to dial in the bellhousing (mine is a Lakewood). My question is, is this necessary for me to check given that none of the parts concerned have been replaced and that it was dialed in when the parts were originally mated? I own a dial indicator but don't have it in my possession at the moment. I hate buying duplicate tools so I'd like to avoid it if it's not necessary. Thanks. |
If your bellhousing was properly dialed in to begin with, then you never have to do it again. That said, if you don't know for sure, then, of course, you must check it.
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If your flywheel had heat damage, your pressure plate did as well. Are you replacing it?
While your friend it under his care for 2 years, did he take the car out for rides? |
Thanks patrick. It's an odd memory to have given it was almost 3 decades ago and I was a little kid at the time, but I specifically remember my dad doing it when he built the car. He was meticulous and much more qualified than I am when it comes to these kinds of things, so I trust that I could do no better than make things worse.
Anthony: I'm replacing the pressure plate as well. It was driven periodically (but sparingly) while in the care of the third party...really just to keep things lubed and exercised, but I trust that it was not abused. I think it was just coincidence that the problem developed in their care. |
Take a look at the alignment dowels in the back of the block. If they are an adjustable type then it was probably dialed in before. It still would be a good idea to check it to be sure but at least that would indicate it has been done previously.
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Trust but verify!
Seems like someone said that about something else once ... Ed |
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Good quote. My favorite all time quote is: No matter how good looking she is, there's some guy , some where, tired of her $hit. |
I had to take a few days off from working on the car, but I have everything back together up to the driveshaft going back in.
I couldn't find a definitive answer from searching...does the transmission output shaft get greased before slipping the driveshaft sleeve on? Also, should the outer diameter of the driveshaft sleeve be lubricated? If so, I assume regular chassis/bearing grease is appropriate? |
Yes, I light coat of chassis grease or oil on both surfaces. With a fixed differential the driveshaft yoke doesn't slide any appreciable amount in and out when the car is driven but a little lubricant can't hurt installation. Once in operation a little tranny lube probably makes it's way in there over time to keep it lubricated. A thin coat of grease on the outside of the yoke helps protect the seal as the yoke is inserted.
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Thanks for the help, Dan.
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Shudder While engaing 1st gear
I am experiencing exactly the same problems and symptoms on a brand new (2013 and I am original owner) 427 Backdraft, puts out a little under 500HP with 3.73 gears in the rear.
My story. Original brand new clutch was a Centerforce. About 5K miles into it I was getting a severe gear crunch every time I put it in reverse. Turned out to be warped flywheel. Replaced the clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing, etc, all brand new....Centerforce again 2 yrs ago. Now I am about 3-4k miles into this brand new clutch and getting the chattering out of 1st gear. I have been driving muscle cars for almost 10 years now and I am not a dufus driver. I don't do burn outs, I don't ride the clutch pedal, I don't slip the clutch excessively ever.....I only like to nail it and wind out the gears on the highway. So I am pretty disappointed to be doing the clutch replacement again. This time a Mcleod is going in. So all that said and done what does the Forum got to say about this BS?? My 3rd clutch in 10,000 miles just ain't right. Scotty Sad.. |
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Try using the Mcleod clutch. I have used these and have great results. I use an aluminum centerforce flywheel and the Mcleod clutch.
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While you are at it, check the clutch master cylinder. Mine started leaking at 16K miles.
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