Engine cooling tech tips
 

Great tips on getting your engine to cool.

https://stewartcomponents.com/wp/wp-...rt_catalog.pdf

Great read!! Contains info at the end of catalog you will not find without hours of digging. THANKS Tom.

Yes, very good information for those having cooling problems or those wishing to avoid them!

It would be nice to have a sticky for this information, even if it's nothing more than the link to the catalogue. One way would be to have a sticky in each of the engine forum categories (e.g. 429/460, Small Blocks, FEs) or, alternatively, perhaps a new forum category devoted to cooling.

No Stage 2, 3, or 4 pumps for FE!!! :mad:

Please read Tech Tip #3. One of the most frequent "Old Wives' Tales" that I encounter is that water doesn't cool well if it passes through the radiator too quickly.

The Tips are good. The stage one pump they sell is cost effective and cast iron, interesting.

Agreed, that one drives me crazy every time I see it. People who apparently don't know any better passing on folklore with no basis in reality.

I did not get that far...lol:LOL:

Very thorough! Thanks for sharing.

You don't need to download the whole catalogue - the tech tips are on their Web site at https://stewartcomponents.com/index....formation_id=6

Seems like some folks should be re-evaluating their cooling system layouts;

In a cooling system, higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the
cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating the radiator is designed to accept. In
general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept 29-31 PSI.

For cooling systems NOT using a cross flow radiator, mounted higher than the engine, you must use a surge tank. A surge tank
is typically a 1 quart tank mounted at the highest point of the system, with the radiator cap on top. The bottom of the tank is connected to
the inlet side of the water pump with a 1/2" or 3/4" line. A 1/4" to 3/8" "bleed" line from the side of the surge tank is connected to the highest
point of the low pressure side of the radiator. The bleed line allows some circulation through the tank while the engine is running. The
surge tank is also large enough to allow the air to separate as the coolant flows through it. Air in the system will then migrate to the area
just below the radiator cap, so that it will be forced out first if system pressure exceeds the radiator cap's rating.

Any aftermarket thermostat housing that mounts the radiator cap directly above the thermostat location, or that mounts the radiator cap in
the top coolant hose, is NOT recommended. Both housing styles are poorly designed, and will push coolant out of the cap at high RPM.

Eric

Any body use Water Wetter or similar products...

When I road-raced motorcycles and did on-track instructor duties at a racing school, our sanctioning body would only allow plain water, or palin water treated with Water Wetter. Nothing else.

That stuff works great, and doesn't make a slick mess on the track when you crash/blow a hose/blow a motor or all three!!!

I used it in my '02 Lightning's intercooler AND engine cooling system. I had it chipped and pulley-ed to more than 500HP and never had a cooling problem. And that thing ran HOT! :p

Eric

Always good to stay on top of all things related to keeping our hot rods in top running order. Our car is creeping up on 23 yrs. old long past due to have cooling system flushed. Plan to change over to waterless coolant this time round after changing all the hoses and thermostat.