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Surge Tank Leak
So I put my Staybil in the fuel tank with a heavy heart and started the engine to cycle some gas to the carburetor as it is time to call it a season here in central Illinois.
I came back out with the car running and noticed steam come out of the engine bay. That is when I noticed the surge tank leaking antifreeze out of the bottom of the tank! The stat had not opened yet so the pump pressure was leaking from an apparent crack in the bottom of the tank. I an going to draw down the level of antifreeze and see how bad it is but my guess is a crack where the mount couples up to the tank. Thank god it did it at the end of the season in the garage. Has anyone soldered or brazed a crack back up or am I better to replace it? And where are tanks available if purchasing a new one is the best option? |
Well I got the tank off and it is too fubar to fix sooooo new tank time, where is the best and I might have it sent out to be chromed before installation next time.
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A good radiator shop can strip and repair your original tank. I had my original tank repaired years ago and it looked better than new when I got it back. I ended up with a new chrome version for my car because I needed it running for an event.
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I de-soldered and took mine apart after repeated solder joint leaks. I cleaned all the old soft solder off all joints, reassembled, fluxed and brazed with 30% silver solder. 5 years have passed and not one leak. One would need and oxy/acet rig to accomplish though.
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Quote:
http://www.southernautomotiveengines...2535890053.JPG Replacement for OEM #: C1AZ-8A080-A 1960-1964 Expansion Tank | C1AZ-8A080-A Kirkham offers what is supposed to be a very nice unit, albeit billet aluminum. They make them for small and big block, left or right exit. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/ariz...ml#post1328060 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/atta...4_131455-s.jpg |
Aluminum replacement
I tried this one which is light, seats excellent, and clears well. I really wanted an oem aluminum or stainless type, but $800 less goes a long way.
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Thanks Guys but Blas recommendation works..... $92 fixes the existing tank and the current piping system needs I have including my heater tap. Then it will be off to get chromed!
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I got the Kirkham tank for my car. The only thing I would do is polish it. The CNC machining tracks are still on it. I don't know if they will polish it first or not (probably extra).
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Not sure chroming is the way to go. If you did, you might not be able to fix it again down the road. Might have to repair shop add an additional brace to reduce stress on pipe from manifold to tank as I'll bet that was where the split occurred. Tank vibrates on tube which supports the filled tank and causes stress crack at seam of tube and tank usually. Add extra bracing. search eBay.... radiator expansion tank cobra....stuff available there. Also check with Dennis Olthoff's website.....
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Blas, this tank did have additional bracing and made it from 2002. If I get that out of it again I probably won't have the car any longer lol.
Thanks for the input though. Kirk |
I have a Southern Automotive SS tank on my car. It is a work of art and has been trouble free for years.
http://clubcobra.com/photopost/data/...umbs/00121.JPG http://clubcobra.com/photopost/data/...Car_Show_2.jpg Old school look plus a little bling and it won't rust! Cheers Greg |
I would of rather gone with the Southern Automotive Tank, but when I called a couple of weeks ago they said they are all out, and would not be making them anymore.
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The Kirkham tank is bulletproof. You will never have a leak with it.
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I agree fully , but at knocking near a grand it should also with hold testing at the Manhattan Project.
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Surge Tank on Ebay
I have one for you:
OEM brass overflow tank for Ford engines 427-390 (used) | eBay PM if interested. Lou |
The original applications for these tanks in Ford "FE" powered vehicles are the reason so many of these tanks fail. For example, in the 1964-66 Thunderbird 390 (and 66 428s) the factory installed upper hose is known as the "question mark" hose i.e. the shape approximates a question mark. This allows the engine to move and the hose to flex and take up the movement. The aftermarket replacement upper hoses are general just a 90 degree shape and thus "pull" on the tank when the engine moves. Most commonly the solder joining the bracket to the lower tank body fails and then the tank is pulled every time the engine rocks. As this continues the joint holding the upper tank body to the lower fails leaks ensue.
The Kirkham tank, the Southern Automotive tank and the polished stainless steel tank that is optional from Superformance (and for the Shelbys they build) do not suffer from this malady as they are not soldered and are much more robust. |
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