Club Cobra - Question about Trigo fia wheels

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I just finished a 1 hour wrestling match with alternator mount, so far alternator is winning. Power steering pump and expansion tank are next.

Original Magnesium Cobra FIA Wheel:

Rim width 8 5/8"
Overall width of wheel 9 7/8"
Hub flat to hub flat 2 7/8"
Back space out side of rim to inner hub flat 3 1/2"

Looking at this I imagine you could put these wheels on a custom mandrill
and machine .1875 off each bead and get some legal 9" wheels maybe that is what they did back in the day. Bead seats are quite thick.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra #3170 (Post 1422502)

We are planning on going but will be a completely untested set up. New shock pistons and engine with much lighter crank. We will have to try and tune it there. There are no events to run so I will break in the new diff on the subdivision roads and hope it all works out. I got oil pressure today spinning the dry sump pump, radiator is in, brakes installed, steering rack tied down, all fuel lines reconnected. Power steering pump, alternator and wiring tomorrow.

Sounds like you're making good progress. Look forward to seeing you run with the new engine. It should be impressive, the old one sure was.

Ted

Thank you Bruce for taking the time to do the measuring in the middle of your engine install. I hope the rest of your install goes smoothly .

With the numbers you provided I am getting a better picture of how thing should be.

Mark

Curtis at Trigo also measured a wheel again. He found a flaw in his calculations. He now said the hub is about 3 5/16 to 3 3/8 thick. This would give another turn of threads or so. This would give me about 5 to 5 1/2 threads of engagement.

The newer wheel produced by trigo now have a thicker hub than original wheels so depending on the length of your drive hub you may or may not have enough thread engagement.

How many spinner thread do they need to be on to be considered safe?

Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAStuart (Post 1422568)

I have run spacers from time to time on both 15" and 16" wheels, I hate to admit it but a couple of times the spinner had only about 1/2 the threads engaged and it worked (wheel did not come off).

I had two major set backs yesterday, found a crack in my expansion tank assembly where it goes into the intake manifold and the crank fire sensor hits the alternator/water pump belt. I moved that sensor rearward about 6 years ago but the FAST tuner guy did not like it being offset rearward so he moved it back forward when they dynoed the engine. I got to move it back while in the car not fun. I asked them why they did not notice that it lined up with the crank pulley path (no answer). Today I hope to add power steering fluid, water and water wetter assuming I can get the tank fixed and begin the wiring process. Should be running by Sunday unless I hit other problem areas.

I know this is an old post but I also ran into this issue and had a machine shop remove the extra material from the front wheel hubs. Danbury Competition Engines in Connecticut did an excellent job.

And the pics are where ???

What pictures do you need?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAStuart (Post 1524860)

What pictures do you need?

Perhaps Ed is asking about the post just above his pertaining to the before and after machining process on the wheels?