Need advice on what a CCX Cobra is worth
 

Hey guys,
New to this thread & the Cobra world.
I was offered to buy a good friends Cobra but not sure what I should be paying for it.
He had this car since 2001 and barely drove it since, needs some maintenance, freeze plug, normal things from sitting. It looks immaculate.
I am wondering what I should be paying for something like this and Id like to be on the safe side in case I was looking to sell it in the near future.

Anywhere from high $20k's to mid $50k's depending on the engine and suspension. We need more information.

We can help you, but need a LOT more information.

Who built it/when?
What engine (who built that, as well)
What transmission?
What does it need for deferred maintenance?
Photos of inside, outside, underside

In my opinion, the upper end of CCX cars may fetch around $50K. Those needing a little work with a small block Ford can be had around $30K. Your range is likely somewhere in between.

Bob must have beat me to the punch as I was typing. Good thing we both pretty much agree (:

I will also add that I have a bit of experience with low mileage Cobras that have been sitting a lot for the past decade or more. Plan for a lot of extra money with resorting these cars and replacing things. $5K minimum, and maybe more if you need extra engine work on an FE.

Engine: 427ci FE Side Oiler
• Block:
o Vetted
o Magna Fluxed
o Pressure Tested
o Drilled and Tapped for proper oil restrictions
o De-burred
o Line Honed
o Deck Squared
o Bored and Honed with Torque Plate Rods
• Rods:
o Vetted
o Magna Fluxed
o Checked for Straightness
o Resized
o Shot Peened
o ARP Rod Bolts
o New Wrist Pins
• Crankshaft:
o Vetted
o Magna Fluxed
o Checked for Straightness
o Regrind Rod and Mains (Line Bored)
o Polished Bearing Surfaces
o Chamfered Oil Holes
• Heads:
o Vetted
o Magna Fluxed
o Pressure Tested
o Machined Valve Stem Seals
o New Bronze Guides
o 3 Angle Valve Job
o Installed Hardened Exhaust Valve Seats
o Surfaced Intake, Exhaust Combustion Chamber Side
o Mild Port and Polish
o Heads and Intake Manifold Port Matched
o Fitted with Oversized Stainless Steel ProFlow Valves
o Crower Valve Springs and Hardened Retainers
• Engine Other:
o Hydraulic Lifters
o Factory Balanced and Blue Printed
o Crower Cam and Degreed
o .030 Over Bore
o New Chrome Moly 3/8 Crower Push Rods & Rocker Shafts
o Polished Remote Oil Filter
o Dual 8V 600CFM Holley Carbs
o Howe Heavy Duty Aluminum Radiator
o Chrome Pulleys
o 7.5 Quart Canton Oil Pan
o Aluminized Exhaust Headers



• Chrome Parts:
o Side Exhaust Pipes
o Roll Bar
o Hood Hinges
o Gas Pedal Linkage And Gas Lines
o Gas Tank Mounting Straps
o Distributor Holder
o Coil
o Oil dip Stick
o Alternator and Mount
o Fire Extinguisher
o 6 Shock Absorbers
o Oil filter Cover
o Front “A” Arms
o Coolant Expansion Tank
o Timing Chain Cover
o Transmission Inspection Plate
o Water Pump
• Polished Aluminum Parts
o Hood Scoop (riveted on Type)
o Firewall
o Hood Liner
o Wheel Well Liners
o Trunk
o Radiator Enclosure
o Oil Cooler Enclosure
o Factory Halibrand Center Locking Pin Drive Wheels
o Hubs
o Knock Offs
o Master Cylinder
o Fire Extinguisher Mount
o Intake Manifold
o Valve Covers
o Rear End Bracket
o Suspension Brackets
o Roller Gas Cap
o Remote Oil Filter Mount
o Four Underside Panels
o Heat Shields
o Front Dual Cooling Fans
• Transmission:
o Ford T-10 Top Loader 4 Speed
o Close Ratio
o Original T-Handle Shifter
• Rear-End:
o Jaguar “E” Type
o 3:54-1 Final Gear Ratio
o Custom Aluminum Billet Polished Lower Control Arms





• Miscellaneous
o Smith Gauges
o Wood Rimmed Steering Wheel
o Wind Wings
o Sun Visors
o Master Off/On Electrical Switch
o NHRA Scatter Shield
o Black European Leather Oversized Seats
o Black Wilton Wool Carpets
o T–Handled Shifter on 4 Speed
o Wildwood Front Disc Brakes
o Locking Gas Cap
o Dash Support Tubes
o Delrin Suspension Bushings
o Original Hood Handle Bezels
o Brake Vent Screens
o Rack & Pinion Steering
o Shelby American VIN Plate
o Custom Calibrated Carrera Adjustable Shocks

Looking to make an offer today, any advice would be appreciated ...

To add to the maintenance list will be tires. They're probably aged out.

Assuming there are no major problems we aren't aware of, I say offer him $40K because of the deferred maintenance issues and be prepared to dicker a bit. It's a desirable brand that's well equipped with all the right stuff. As the others have said, this car in good condition could trade at $50k +.

I'm a sucker for a nice CCX car and this is a very nice one from outward appearances and the list of goodies that come with it. However, deferred maintenance is the worst thing you can do to a car like this. If it has been maintained, started on a regular basis and allowed to come up to temp, and otherwise looked after, I would consider it to be in the $40- $45 range. If it just sat all this time under a cover with few miles on it, there will be lots of things that need to be looked after-
Tires will need replacement from age- 6-7 years is considered pretty much aging out
Carb will probably need a rebuild- gaskets will be dried out and seats will be varnished up
Other engine, oil pan, transmission gaskets will probably be dried out also and need replacement
Rear diff and transmission oil will need replacement as well as engine oil and coolant to be on the safe side- A short drive for testing systems may be safe but not much more until you are sure everything works.
Brake fluild should be drained and replaced properly.
Boots on steering components and rear axles may be cracked and need replacement.
U-joints may need replacement from setting in one position for long enough to rust needle bearings in place
Battery will probably need replacement

The list could go on and on. Be prepared to defend your offer with these items or you could have a very expensive but nice looking money pit.

Bob

Do we know why it has a bad freeze plug? Was it stored in an unheated garage for a period of time? Be careful, this may be a small issue that becomes a big problem.

Lol! Shelby VIN plate on a CCX.

One of the builders in the northeast used to use Shelby American tags on a regular basis. The local DMV did not find it amusing.

I’d personally never drive a car with chrome plated A arms. Hydrogen embrittlement can bite you when you least expect it.
Good luck with the purchase!

Yes, no suspension component should be chrome plated.

I'm surprised no one has inquired about the title. Is it clear? Is it salvage? Not something you would expect, but worth a look. What is the chassis number? When was the car built and by whom? What does it look like under the body? Raise it on a hoist and look close. Are the frame joints square? What type of suspension components are used? Is it all E type or has some custom work been done? Check the front rotors. What does it have? Most importantly, drive the car. Does it run OK accelerate OK.. How does the engine sound? Will it start?

You guys are a little crazy $5K? There is no way a car that sat in that environment would need 5k to get it up and ready.
Geez.
Can you turn a wrench?

No, not crazy - just experienced buying a number of these types of cars over the years that have been suffering from lack of regular use.

I too believe Troy is spot on. 5K at least on a car that has spent time sitting, even in a heated garage. Myself & another CC member was (were?) at a auction a couple week's ago. There was a 2011 ERA there, with 3800 miles, most were done, in the first year. After looking it over, there was seeping out of the bellhousing a 427SO (Rear main) brake caliper's, front seal on the rear end, That's what we found on just a quick look around, so you add in just those piece's that need attention, that's easily 5K. Yes, it's cheaper if you can do the work yourself, but most of us are too old to be doing that much work our self's. Plus I want the work done right, by someone that knows Cobra's and they don't come Cheap. Just my $.02 Cheers Tom.

I never put more then 12 miles on tires. Excellent tires will save your butt on those little weekend trips. No worries is a good thing since no spare is usually the case. Always carry couple cans of “Fix It)

Every two years have someone go through the car suspension looking at everything. Depending on weather change your battery out every 2-3 years. (Unless you are in AZ). I changed everything out under car few years ago. Shocks, A Arms, ball joints, batteries, hoses, most everything.
Also put car up on lift every 6 months depending on driving to perform “nut and bolt” check. Mine is solid mounted so car vibrates like a Harley ��.
Also good idea to have someone that knows these cars to drive it as you will get use to it and may not notice things.
Change oil every 3,000 miles and of course check tire pressure and nuts��.

Seven month old thread - was it ever purchased??