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The starter engagement issue is pointing to the problem. You need to fix that problem before the engine goes into the car or you will start using starters. BTW, when you fix the starter problem your TOB problem will also go away — w/o grinding on the clutch release fork.
Ed |
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I agree, except that I rang Powermaster Technical and they said 70% is ideal as it enables the pinion to fire back easily.
Can't say I agree with that at all. Especially turning over a big block. So machine 1/16" off the front of the starter flange? Don't really want another $500 flywheel.... |
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Patrickt is steering you in the right direction. I might consider having the material removed from the flywheel register that bolts to the crank. If you do it that way you kill two birds with one stone — you get proper starter pinion engagement with the flywheel and you also improve your TOB and clutch release arm clearance to the BH. Ed |
This is a mystery - seems to be a correct flywheel for your engine unless they got an incorrect one in the wrong box. But considering it bolts to the crank and takes a 12 inch Ford pressure plate the odds of that seem long. I have a Scat crank in my engine and an aluminum flywheel and I'm just sure it isn't sitting that far from the back of the block.
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I'd still like someone to explain why that flywheel specifically says it won't fit pre-1965 FEs. If SCAT mimics a pre-1965 configuration, then that flywheel won't work.
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Is it possible that pre '65 FE's have a flywheel flange that is positioned differently on the crank or perhaps a different thickness — possibly both?
Ed |
Is it possible to exchange or return your flywheel? If not what about selling it?
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I should say this is a Pond Block with an 1/8” block plate that came with the McLeod SSP clutch. My engine builder, an FE specialist, measured up another FE and told me the gap between back of flywheel and BP was not .55” like mine but similar at .48”. My flywheel M6375 N427 or that’s what is said on the box, is flat across the back, wheareas the one he measured had a .08” negative recess or step, which explains the difference. I can’t understand the variance between these flywheels, yet no declaration in in the spec.
As I said I now have 1/4” fresh air between the TOB and the clutch fingers, which seems okay, to me. I can mill 1/16” off the front of the PM Mini Starter and I’ll have full engagement. I prefer that to removing material from the flywheel and risking any run out, and potential failure. If I was starting again, I’d ask SCAT to simply reduce the thickness of the crank flange by about 3/16”. Also the McLeod plastic alignment thing did not align my clutch, despite two attempts. In the end used the TKO itself with the BH off. I’m also considering taking out the 4” transmission crossmember and moving it back 2”, so I can get the trans in using the conventional mount, without tipping the motor. I intend to run an underfloor system. |
A bit off topic, but has anybody made their trans crossmember removable?
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Bellhousing
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