These cars are never done
 

Last summer I tried to impress my grandson It went great for just a minute and the engine started stumbling. I hadn't warmed the engine and was Shure I had sheared the distributor drive gear pin. Ended up I had run out of gas. time spent and parts bought small parts but. This year I finally got the garage cleared and got the car out. I forgot a lot since last year how the clutch pedal feels, unlike the brake pedal. You can stand on the brake and it just won't go into gear. I put the last of my pocket cash into the tank, I'm down to $11 singles in my pocket. Now the hazard warning switch is a problem. I have rights but no lefts, Bad switch I tested, now I can't find a (same) Old time push pull switch replacement Knob has the triangle symbol. l Three screw eye terminals BAT in center rear with a fuse, and a terminal on either side _ left and right. All the wires are connected on the hazard switch. It is not as original but could be needed. I've looked around online Finish line, Cobra restorers, Ron Francis, Painless wiring. What I find are toggle switches. Not what I want now. After an hour at the auto parts store with the beat parts guy I know I settled for DS234 looks a lot like what I have but longer threaded neck and shaft. Should get it tomorrow, We'll see.
Next thing, I put the ignition switch and thusly the keys low and to the left. Problem is the dangling keys jab my knee when operating the clutch .. What did you happy builder-drivers, do differently?
Then lastly for now the door striker got lose. my striker is accessed through the wheel well hole is covered with black duct tape,, nut had shuck off and when I removed the striker the two shim washer fell into the carpet. What to use for thread drag so it won't just shake off again? some goo that will give the drag on the threads but not hurt anything? I'm trying the smallest amount of Gorilla clear glue on the male striker threads let it set up first. That's it for now, I have other tasks to take care of.

Have you tried the blue thread lock works well on my Superformance and my Harley.

What I had was the new (to me ) Gorilla clear glue that I happened to be using on some fence pieces. I just used the smallest quantity, applying to the end of the threads of the door striker and then I glued the two shim washers to the acorn nut and let set up. It worked fine providing enough drag so as that nut will never rattle off again. I had to hold the striker with a crescent wrench and tighten the nut with a long version of a 3/8" ratchet. Everything is now great there now.
I had a time with the hazard warning switch though. The original screws were knurled so they were hard to remove for full eye terminals ends. What a pain trying to stack wires on a screw and get started into switch terminal. I ended up making two short leads to gather the wires for each side and the single eyed extension lead. That brought all the wires into clusters so regular turn signals will work without the Hazard switch and then the hazard switch will work fine . Hazard switch gets it's power from the battery so I do not need to turn on any other switches as if I have to leave the car. I did find a similar push-pull(labeled as a headlight switch) purposed for 46- 71 Jeep all CJs. No mention of a dimmer or park lights and it comes with a circuit breaker instead of an glass fuse. The number 946613 seems to find bunches of them, But I already spent my money on this DS234 switch.
Next on to the key thing. I thought I had it nailed with the ignition switch placement.. Low on the left under the door seam in a protected area.as the original builder had it. Now it's bothering me , the keys and fob keep jabbing my knee when operating the clutch. I do not really want to start moving the ignition switch on the padded dash. With the ignition key in switch the keys and fob are at the dash material seem and below. I've been toying with separating the rest of the pile of keys ( the traditional Cobra fob, steering wheel to brake pedal locking bar. Glove box door, trunk lock, locking gas tank cap, and house key. and attaching to another point in the area but off my knee.?

I removed the left rear wheel to gain access to the front of the rear wheel well to clean up and reapply new Gorilla duct tape to cover the door striker nut hole in body. I saw the grease points . The lower arm an hub were all I could access. Now it looks like changing to some angled grease zerks in the Jag drive axle U-joints I couldn't access with my stuff and present position. may be on the list of thing to do in the near future. It's been at least 15 years since. See what I mean never done?

I used the lcktite on my Superformance as well. Worked like a charm.

Blue Loctite is my friend. I get the big bottles of it now. I pretty much use it on all nuts and bolts. I tried the red Loctite and it is stronger. Only use the red stuff on nuts you do not want to remove again.

If you want just a little hold, less than blue Loctite, try clear nail polish.

p.s. Don't tell my wife.

Now, what to about the keys or do I have to move the ignition switch? The Key fob was set up as a nice tight package. fits nicely into a pocket but is also Simi stiff and it really jabs the knee. I've lived with it for twenty years , I must be getting picky. Do I separate the ignition key from the rest when driving. Placing the ignition switch higher in the dash will leave the rest of the keys and fob to swing back and forth on the padded dash scuffing it up.

I have tried a number of places for my ignition switch. The best place on my Arntz is on the transmission tunnel just below the right edge of the steering wheel. It is easy to reach, out of the way and prevents quick hot wiring. I have tried various switches with and without separate starter buttons. I am currently using a Ron Francis switch. Turn right for ignition and start. Turn left for accessories. I wired an extra starter push button switch under the hood for adjusting valves. It only works in accessory position. This works really well most of the time but the Ron Francis switch gets sticky sometimes. I use 3M dry lube to free it up. On the left side of the dash, I installed a battery cut off switch which complies for racing requirements for track days. It is also useful when doing electrical work. You are correct that these cars are never complete. I’ve been working on mine for 37 years and keep thinking of improvements. It is a great retirement hobby.

My ignition switch is keyed for on and off. I use a separate push button for starter I have a Flaming River master battery cut- off switch ( twist to on and bump inward for off), center of dash. reachable from outside. with a big lettered mounting plate. Starting to think of the modern cars with no keyed switch, just getting in the car with the key and your good to go. Not correct for such a car as a Cobra Replica or not.

So, after I put clear nail polish on my nails, what do I use on the bolts?

Cyanoacrylate adhesive.