Alignment/suspension gurus on this board?
 

Hello guys

For starters, my Cobra is 1000% street driven cruiser. No racing or track.

BDR provides alignment specs from the e36 M3, with some changes, for the Backdraft Cobra.

Their e36 M3 specs with 15” wheels provided as follows:
Front
Caster 3.2* to 4.2* left and right
Camber -1.0* to 0.0* left and right
Toe 0.08* to 0.22* left and right
Front total toe .17* to 0.43*

Rear
Camber -1.9* to -1.4* left and right
Toe 0.15* to 0.25* left and right
Rear total toe: 0.30* to 0.50*

The changes they suggest:
1. Rear camber to be set between 0 and -0.7
2. Rear toe to be set at 0.25 (toe in as far as spec allows)
3. Front toe to be set at 0.22 (toe in as far as spec allows)

I put my BDR (with 18” wheels) on an alignment rack, and the results are as follows:

Front
Caster: left 5.3*, right 5.7*
Camber: left -2.4*, right -3.1*
Toe: left 0.10*, right 0.15*
Front total toe: 0.25*

Rear
Camber: left -0.6*, right -1.2*
Toe: left 0.15*, right 0.05*
Rear total toe: 0.20*

There is no adjustability for the camber front or rear. Iconic parts does sell camber plates for the front and adjustable camber arms for the rear. But nothing that could change at the moment.

I am wondering why my specs are more aggressive than the specs provided. The alignment tech is a race car driver and instructor, and his suggestion was for the front and rear camber to be -1.0 * to -0.5*, front and rear total toe to be 0.0*

Also how does toe affect handling, safety, etc. Tech was saying he would never put the amount of toe that was recommended by BDR.

Any input?

Thank you

Very interesting on the front you can adjust your coilovers witch will effect the camber not sure caster is adjustable I assumed that back worked the same way? I would like to hear some expert knowledge in this area too.

Isnt front and rear adjustable coilovers? With that said, my car sits lower than most Cobras I see.

Bump...

That is pretty easy to change. In the front, jack up the frame to get the weight off the springs. Then just reach up there and spin the collar a couple of turns.

The rear is slightly more difficult. You have to remove the wheel to gain access to the adjuster.

Once you set ride height to your liking, I would suggest finding a place to set corner weights. Mine were way off.

I checked the alignment specs, and they were right where I wanted them. I didn't have to make any changes, so I can't help you there.

The specs look pretty good to me. Less camber on that one might be a plus but no big deal. I believe I have 1/8" toe in. My car has a live rear so no camber adjustment is easily available.

The larger toe in will make the car run straight better but might hurt ultimate cornering so probably not desirable for track or autocross work.

I'd just drive it as it is probably.

Ttt any more suggestions

I went through this.
I ended up buying the camber plates, and adjustable caster.

During that time, my shop called BDR.
They stated their intention was for ride height to drive all suspension alignments.
You mentioned your car is very low, lower than images of other BDRs ??
If yes, bringing the car up could lessen some of your suspension variance.

Run 0 camber ft & rear

0 toe rear

0 - 1/8 toe front

as much positive caster in front as you can get as long as it is the same left and right

I may raise the front 1/2” to camber out a bit (theoretically) but it looks so damn good low!

I just learned that certain BDR’s between 2015-2017 (dont know exact build # range) were built with negative camber in the chassis.. need camber plates to camber out