Gonna be really hard pressed to find a hoist with all of its components made in the USA.

Steel Valley Lifts, formerly Backyard Buddy, made in the USA. I have BB bought in 2003. No broken cables.

It looks to be a Direct Lift. I have one several years ago I notice the cable had minor damage to it, upon examination, I found where the cable had some how come off the one of the pulleys. I lowered the life, put the cable back on the pulley and have not had an issue with it since

The hydraulic power unit has plate:: DURO Mfg co.

The owners manual says: FP8K-DS & FP8K-DS-XLT Pour post parking lifts 8,000 lbs. Capacity

Tuxedo distributors limited warranty (structural 5 year warranty does NOT include cables)

1905 N Main St Suite C, Cleburne, TX 76033
817-558-9337

Website:

http://www.tuxedodistributors.com/au...tivelifts.html

I will be phoning them today and sending them photos.

It'll take 'way less than an hour to get the shredded cable off your lift and maybe an hour for a steel vendor to make up a replacement and then another hour to install the new cable. I have no idea where in your area you might find a vendor, but heavy machinery dealers and repair shop can point you in the right direction. (tractors, bulldozers, cranes etc). NOT a difficult job at all. Wear heavy gloves :eek: My 2¢ worth. Just do it.

Karl Bebout
Thanks for the info/suggestion, BUT, I intend to contact the manufactures, have them come and get my car off their lift, remove their lift, refund my money, and tell them how lucky they are that I was not killed or injured due to their faulty lift.
Of course they will disagree with me, fine, I'll see them in court. Any judge seeing the photos of the shredded cable, and other photos, worth his salt, will agree with me.

The cables are considered a wear item and highly doubtful they'd be covered.
They may ship you a freebie IF you can show a failure at the Swedged end due to over (cut wires) or under (slippage) swedging.

They do sell all the various cables for all the Maint lifts and your Storage lift as well, See page 32.
http://www.tuxedodistributors.com/su...19_catalog.pdf

Making cables using a local vendor can work IF they use the correct Flexible cables for your application (they come in several turn radius ratings).

Good luck with that. There's almost ZERO probability that a stranded cable like that would fail by all strands breaking at once.

Assuming it didn't break loose at the swaged end, most likely, the cables were improperly tensioned, or misaligned on a pulley, and over time each strand broke until failure. And that would be on you.

Must be a CA thing, to want to rush into a law suit.

At least its not hot coffee.

Pretty sure there's something in the owner's manual discussing checking the cables before each use.

I just had to rebuild my hydraulic cylinder, and I assure you that I will be checking every pulley to make sure the cables (which are slack now) are back on properly, and the cables are tensioned per spec. It's a two man operation. Wife will be deployed.

you should NEVER support the car with the hydraulics or the cables, these are for raising the car ONLY!!!! When I use my 2 post lift I always raise the car to the desired position then lower the car to the safety stops. This way the cables and hydraulics are NEVER under load while im under the car. Im no pro mechanic but this is just common sense. Darwinism lol

Karl Bebout
Must be a CA thing, to want to rush into a law suit.

At least its not hot coffee.

Really? making a joke where someone could have been injured? Must be an AZ thing.
I'm not rushing in, I said I give them chance to make it right.

Had the hoist 4 years, only used it maybe 10 times.
It could be on me, I'll accept that. I'd like to here what their rep says.

Would be safe to leave car on lift if the safety locks are engaged. If one or more are not engaged a 4x4 post and bottle jack could raise the corner up to engage safety catch. you need lift up high enough to string new cable anyway. Tell supplier what the cable is going to be used for, he may suggest anti twist cable. Give suppler all information you can, size of pulleys, drawing of route, pictures of end of ram and how ends locked on post. I'm in truss business and deliver trusses with cranes for 40 years FWIW.

I work in a factory that uses cable hoists to remove (1500 lb +/-) rolls of plastic film from a winder. I can count 21 hoists in my head, two of which are 5 ton hoists that reach the first floor and are located 40 to 50 feet above that. The rest are 1 and 2 ton units that are 20 foot high or less.

I have seen quite a few cables fail over the 41 years I have worked there. It's always scary and never pretty. Every failure, the root cause was the operators failure to properly check the hoist before use, which they are required to do and document every shift, by law. The problem is cables fail slowly over time and checking every shift (law) causes people to assume that if the previous guy did a good job checking, he doesn't have to. Pretty soon everyone is not doing a good inspection.

The simplest check is to let all the weight off the cable so you can flex it into a small loop. Use gloves for this. Then check for whiskers sticking out of the cable. Drag a rag up and down the cable and see if the rag gets caught on whiskers sticking out. The bend will expose the whiskers long before you will ever see them under tension. Always try to check an area on the cable that sees a lot of work bending around pulleys.

We are generally lifting 2 roll per hour 24 x 7 x 365. We size the hoist so the lift is no more than 3/4 the hoist rating, but target 2/3 the hoist rating. We replace the cable every 2 years, and sooner if whiskers show up. We will not operate a hoist with whiskers present. No failures since implementing this policy about 30 years ago. About 5 or 6 failures the 10 year period before that.

One more tid bit. How quickly the motor stops and starts puts a jerk factor onto the cable. The jerk can easily double the tension on the cable. If you are starting the motor with slack in the cable and the motor gets to full speed before the slack is out, the jerk factor could be 3 or 4 or 5 times the weight it is lifting, depending on the speed.

After seeing your work area, carpet on ground and crap all over the place, on the ground. I would not be prechen, If I were you.

Looks pretty good compared to mine after a project.

I do not understand the root of this comment, but anyone who is preaching a safety point is a hero for doing so. Even if they are not perfect. Show me a priest, preacher, or rabbi without sin.

The point is correct. The hoist is made for the load to set on blocks or some other type of locking mechanism. You should not go under a car suspended on cables running through a pulley system.

I mentioned my place of employment in an earlier post. Everyone has pounded into their head starting the day they are highered, you never, ever, for any reason, walk under a suspended load. It is a one time fire-able offense. No exceptions. No excuses accepted. We have never had to fire anyone and it does not happen.

Wtf are you talking about. That garage isn’t filthy.

what a troll LOL, an air hose not put away, a matt (not carpet) on the floor... what an IDIOT...

I also need to add that the cables on a 2 post lift are meant to equalize the 2 sides and the hydrolic system actually does the lifting. ALWAYS lower the car to the safety stop (the clicking sound heard while lifting the car)