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-   -   Wheel caps removed (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/143596-wheel-caps-removed.html)

tortuga 05-11-2020 05:16 PM

Wheel caps removed
 
2 Attachment(s)
I like the look without the little caps on the hubs, but the knock off adapters are steel and they rust inside...Anyone apply any sort pf coating in there? Thinking a dull silver grey (mix primers?)...

Blas 05-11-2020 07:26 PM

I have a second set of centers that were power-coaster black. Same basic effect.
Blas

snakeeyes 05-11-2020 08:25 PM

You could use POR-15. It will take care of the rust as well; they make both silver and gray shades.

tortuga 05-11-2020 09:05 PM

Recommendation taken
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by snakeeyes (Post 1476362)
You could use POR-15. It will take care of the rust as well; they make both silver and gray shades.

They make it clear, ordered a pint...figure ill clean the holes up real good, then clear coat.

Thanks

snakeeyes 05-11-2020 09:14 PM

Even better!

Mike I 05-12-2020 03:54 AM

Very nice looking SPF tortuga!

1985 CCX 05-12-2020 05:49 AM

A little gun oil and scotch bright goes a long way
its easy
its cheap

tortuga 05-13-2020 07:42 AM

And i've got both...
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 1985 CCX (Post 1476383)
A little gun oil and scotch bright goes a long way
its easy
its cheap

Hey Steve whats happend to all our pot scrubbers?

oh we must have used them all, put more on the list...

Mongoose930 05-13-2020 10:00 AM

I could be wrong about this, but I thought that removing the front caps was not recommended as they actually are offering protection to the front bearings? I have removed my rear caps but left the fronts on.

Mongoose930 05-13-2020 10:49 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Picture of my front wheel assembly.

patrickt 05-13-2020 11:05 AM

If the castle nut spins when the car is moving then you don't need a cap. If the castle nut stays in the same place (like on just about every front spindle on every car you had before front wheel drive came along) then you need a cap because the outer bearing is right behind the little washer behind the nut. I have a cap on my rear hubs, even though I don't need it, because the nut is attached to the stub axle that is splined in to the hub and the hub is spinning with the stub axle. There's no bearing right behind the nut like there is up front, so there's no reason to have a cap. Here's a pic to help you visualize it:

http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/jagrear/rerahubx.gif

Grubby 05-13-2020 11:40 AM

I think Superformance uses 5 pins. Therefore the bearing is covered deeper in.

6 pin cars need the cover as the bearing is open.

John

tortuga 05-13-2020 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grubby (Post 1476471)
I think Superformance uses 5 pins. Therefore the bearing is covered deeper in.

6 pin cars need the cover as the bearing is open.

John

Exactly...The adapter is where a WHEEL would normally bolt onto the hub/rotor assembly. Instead of a wheel the drive pins (lug nuts) hold the adapter on, over which goes the knock off wheel and spinner...Sure seems like alot of un-sprung weight for getting a knock off...

snakeeyes 05-14-2020 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tortuga (Post 1476472)
Exactly...The adapter is where a WHEEL would normally bolt onto the hub/rotor assembly. Instead of a wheel the drive pins (lug nuts) hold the adapter on, over which goes the knock off wheel and spinner...Sure seems like alot of un-sprung weight for getting a knock off...

I’ve never compared the two but when you consider you’re trading five or six stubby drive pins and a knock off for five longer wheel studs and lug nuts, I doubt the difference is all that much. At any rate it was done on the originals of course to facilitate rapid wheel changes during races.

tortuga 05-18-2020 07:32 PM

THANKS Snakeyes!
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tortuga (Post 1476366)
They make it clear, ordered a pint...figure ill clean the holes up real good, then clear coat.

Thanks

That stuff is the $hit! I scuffed up the insides of the hub with a small sanding wheel and painted on the clear, its very clear but obviously there as you cant feel any of the profile just smooth hard plastic feeling coat!

I like the rough finish in there, polished would look kinda cheesy?

Great call, My Pint would do about 500 more cars LOL...

Steve H
1764

snakeeyes 05-18-2020 07:52 PM

Tortuga, I’m glad it worked out. I’d heard about the stuff for a long time but finally broke down and ordered some a few years ago to paint the brake rotor hats on a car I’d just bought. You could see them through the wheels, coated with surface rust. The POR seemed expensive but like you I had a ton of it left after. A single coat and they looked like new, and the rust has never come back.

Mike I 05-19-2020 04:42 AM

My experience with POR is that it has very limited shelf life once you pop the lid on the can. Kind of like RTV sealant in a tube, you may as well toss it out once its been cracked open.

tortuga 05-22-2020 08:13 AM

Shelf Life
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike I (Post 1476845)
My experience with POR is that it has very limited shelf life once you pop the lid on the can. Kind of like RTV sealant in a tube, you may as well toss it out once its been cracked open.

Thats too bad, just need to find all kinds of stuff to clear coat!

Steve H
SPF 1764


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