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and I'd also add pi$$ poor connections add to the excessive Amperage issue. Those are brush fans and as such are life limited on the service life. To isolate each fan I'd connect them one a time to a battery directly. Use an induction clamp on AMP meter. Taking the car out of the equation. Reading your 1st post this issue started after the fuse holder replacements, so I'd relook at those connections for a the actual number of copper strands in each connection. (Just a few strands=Hi-AMP under load). Many of the cheaper wire strippers nick the copper strands and leave you with just a few actually intact. |
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This is really annoying now!!:mad::mad::mad: |
Not haveing acurrently havingha a fan problem I don't know
I've watched the old electric motors with brushes being replaced with brushless motors. The fan in my gas heating stove, then the Dewalt cordless drill drivers. why not electric fan motors on cars? They are more power efficient than the older brushed versions. Why wouldn't the brushless technology eventually be used on electric fans for cars? It may already be available in a better brands, Again I do not know I suppose then there are warehouses' full of the old fan versions, yet to get rid of.
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There you go , I didn't know. Sounds like something I thought would happen. Yet another point to look for if and when shopping for replacement cooling fans next time. I have no problem with my fans at this time but they are at least 35 years old. So this experience may be used in the future.
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Those little fuses are not good for a high draw like fans, or fuel pumps.....they get hot and eventually fail....Fans and fuel pump should run relays, and have an inline large fuse for the main relay power wire..
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Those little fuses are not good for a high draw like fans, or fuel pumps.....they get hot and eventually fail....Fans and fuel pump should run relays, and have an online large fuse .
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UPDATE On fans issue:
Yesterday I tested the fans isolated from everything, placed the ammeter on line and each fan by itself, the initial amperage was 45-50 amps to kick on at 205o. Checked all connections ground etc and all are fine. Relays are working fine, I replaced the mini fuses for 30 amp circuit breakers. I changed the radiator cap for a brand new one 13lbs as required in the event that the old cap was not venting properly and added Water wetter to the coolant. At this point I am watching and see if it happens again. |
Lou,
I hope that will correct the problem but if it doesn't send me an email and tell me everything that you have done. I had a friend who had a similiar problem and it turned out to be the last thing we suspected and they tested good on every test. It was just pure luck that we found out what it was. Heck, we even ran new temporary wiring to the fans on his car to make sure there was no intermittant short. But I hope this takes care of your problem as things like this can really be annoying. Ron |
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Tks for your quick reply, well I have checked all connections, changed the mini fuses and use mini circuit breakers instead, isolated the fans and checked the amperage with amp meter, the kick on as expected 205o the initial draw was approximately 50 amps and then goes down to 40-45 while running, turn off at 195o all this is normal. the fans are freewheeling do not show binding or hangups. Changed the radiator cap for a new one 13lbs vented, I was unsure of the venting of the previous cap. I did this because i noticed the puke tank side hose collapsing after cooling off but if it was vented this should not happen. So I changed the cap. I added water wetter to the coolant mixture. Check the online fuse of the hose temp sensor for the fans, that is fine. Test run the car (ambient temp 80o) open road remained at 190o, at a light stop went up to 200o all is fine so far. I will stay away from slow city cruising that is murder for these cars. So far this is all I have done. tks Lou PS Yes it could be very annoying |
Does he have high amp relays on these fans? I use a relay that is fed from the alternator. Am I wrong here? I mean does this car have a nice big relay?
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That what I figured he needs a relay...……….
Add this https://www.amazon.com/TE-tyco-Curre.../dp/B00OHRZ782 Use fusible links to power it up. Wire directly from the alternator and do not use your fuse panel to power anything except the relay. Overtime it will get worse |
I'd go with circuit breakers on a lot of electrical control points If you can fix or eliminate what ever tripped the breaker you can reset it and get to some place for help. When I first had the car I went to my nephews house and left late. The head light switch burnt out and I went home with the flashers marking the curbing to get home. You burn a fusible link and your done. But you have to find and fix the problem first or a circuit breaker will just l trip again. and circuit breakers do get tired and used up if used at or near their limit much.
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How big are the relays? The relay should not blow the fuse. What is the fan power source for the relay?
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diagram
1 Attachment(s)
Check this out. There is load on that wire. It does not make sense it should just be turning on a relay.
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If you have two fans and a relay for each then you should have two fuses, one for each relay. Correct? |
Well it depends what they pull amp wise. But two is better. I like the one relay set up with the volvo system above. I have used a single 75 amp Bosch relay to power a Mark VIII fan. They work well. I have hooked them up to a mech. switch or a temp switch. Both work well.
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UPDATE ON THE CAUSE
After much digging it all came down to the hose that holds the thermostatic switch for the fans( top hose) it was a contraption ready to literally blow with two hose components totally collapsed due to the weight of the design of this contraption. a brand new hose is being professionally made and hopefully this situation is corrected.http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/memb...se-cobra-2.jpg |
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