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Rear sway bar links
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As I'm fabbing my scratch build independent rear suspension, I am at the point of figuring out my rear sway bar.
I am planning to use a 1999/2000 Miata rear sway bar 22mm in diameter. That diameter should be sufficient for street use. It is very close to the width dimensions I need and readily available. I would appreciate any wisdom/advice as to the angularity of the links. Here are a few pics of what I've dummied up. I would imagine the the links would be best if they were near vertical at static suspension position ( lower a-arm not in motion and not in compression or droop). Looking forward to your input |
And I'm wondering about the longevity of those tie-wraps. LOL
Cheers Greg |
Greg,
Maybe you've thought of this, but here goes anyway: Would it be practical to look at the Miata to get an idea as to their mounting practice? Tom |
Hi Tom. Yup. Been looking at aftermarket Miata sway bar links for good pics of orientation.
A lot of links use "heavy duty" ball joint ends for more "alignment range", adjustablity, and longevity on the street. Learning more. Cheers Greg |
My VSE uses a tie rod for the sway bar link. Simple and very heavy duty. I'd prefer something a lot lighter but it works fine.
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When sizing your rear sway bar you should consider the diameter of the front sway bar. Rear sway bars are typically smaller in diameter than front sway bars.
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Something you my want to think about. Search “WELTMEISTER SWAY BAR PARTS - PORSCHE 911 FRONT” and look at the slider clamp. The slider clamp allows you to locate the attachment point to the sway bar forward or backward giving more or less torque in the arm via the bars leg. This compensates for a bar diameter that is too small or too big. Had them on my Porsche an was very pleased with them.
Blas |
Hi Blas. I've been looking for a set of those sliding clamps for years. Weltmeister doesn't seem to have them available anymore and I'm not deep enough in the Porsche culture to know how to find used ones.
I'll have to try looking harder and start pinging my Porsche friends for help. Cheers Greg |
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This is the KMS way
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Watch out for rose joint side-binding at the extremes. It's hard to tell, but those brackets look narrow and could restrict side movement.
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Thanks strictlypersonal. Good advice.
I will use wider brackets and rod end spacer washers to allow for more freedom of movement. Cheers Greg |
Generally speaking, a sway bar is used to fine tune the suspension for varying or changing conditions. Especially important for race cars and heavy street cars with solid axles.
On a light car with IRS, you probably do not need a sway bar at all. The bar ties the two sides of the car together, and uses the weight on one side to increase "weight" on the other side as the car is turning. The bigger the bar, the less independent the suspension becomes. On my MII, I found that the rear bar worked well on the track. But disconnecting the bar on the street gave a better ride, and better control on rough surfaces. I used front and rear bars only on the track, and disconnected them on the street. My advice for a street only is to skip the rear bar until you start driving it. And then you can make adjustments as needed. |
Hi bobcowan. I like how you think!
What about a front sway bar on a street car with irs? Cheers Greg |
There are essentially two ways to set up the front suspension for handling:
- Heavy springs, and light bar - Soft springs and big bar. For a strictly street car, I like soft springs and heavy bar. You get a nice ride that doesn't beat you up. The soft springs will allow good weight transfer to improve braking. And the heavy bar controls understeer in the corners. It's always a compromise. :) |
Thanks bobcowan. That's how I have my front set up: soft springs and a heavy bar.
I'm very satisfied with the ride and handling. I'm going to follow your advice and set aside the rear sway bar installation. Cheers Greg |
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