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Quote:
Did you install it with thread sealing tape or thread sealer of some kind? If so, it may not be properly grounded. |
Good Point
The directions from Autometer call for using a telfon thread sealant which is what I used. There is a reducer adapter that is screwed into the welded portion that holds the sender. Shorting the sender sends the needle to the highest reading so the gauge is working. Going to check it with an ohm meter next to see what kind of continuity there is between a good ground and the body of the sender. I noticed on the Autometer site there is something called a short sweep sending unit which is what I have. Just got off the phone with them and they confirmed the using a teflon thread sealer as well as using an ohmmeter to test the grounding. Onward....
Thanks Fred http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...bs/sending.jpg Quote:
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On those senders a poor connection, poor ground can cause the cold reading (high resistance=low temp. Or its a bad sensor. Since its a new sensor and gauge I'd lean to what Cycleguy mentioned.
https://www.autometer.com/sensor_specs PS: over-torquing the center stud can really screw them up permanently. Should be snug enough to prevent the eyelet from swiveling only. |
Done with it for now.
Spoke to Autometer on the phone and they suggested a continuity test from the body of the sending unit to the frame. I already did that and it was fine. Grounded the gauge connection on the sender and the gauge went to max so the gauge is fine. As long as I know the oil is over 200 degrees in the pan I am not going to worry about it till I change the oil and pull the sender. Thanks for the chart. Going to compare laser oil pan reading to sender ohm reading next time I take the car out.
Fred Quote:
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