Ok now that you have had your Cobra what would you change

[HUBBELL RACING]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Put it on the back of the clutch pedal, then you activate it kind of like you shift a motorcycle.

If it’s a replica you can just mount it on dash somewhere.

If it’s original mount it under dash somewhere easy to reach.

I have same thing on my 1960 Caddy Eldorado but she has a lot more room.

[cycleguy55]

In retrospect, I realize I probably should have changed wives sooner, allowing me to purchase the Cobra years before I actually did. LOL

More memories, fewer regrets.

BTW, my wife refers to it as "the red mistress".

[olddog]

Which Wife refers to what as "the red mistress?"

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by olddog

Which Wife refers to what as "the red mistress?"

2nd / current wife.

[Mongoose930]

I have attached a picture of the footbox from an original 427 comp car. This is the same location where my footswitch is located, but I just can't my foot there. It's a lot further behind the pedals than it appears.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Mongoose930

I have attached a picture of the footbox from an original 427 comp car. This is the same location where my footswitch is located, but I just can't my foot there. It's a lot further behind the pedals than it appears.

That would be next to impossible on my car. And I'd rather have the dead pedal.

[Buzz]

Just one more reason why I detest floor mounted pedals in a street driven Cobra. With hangers, you could put the switch in the floor below the clutch pedal. Originality on hidden details like that be damned - the stalk mounted switch isn't original either anyway, lol!

[Michael C Henry]

My cars original builder used a 62-76 Triumph steering column and the head lamp dimmer switch is a lever on the right side of the bell opposite the turn signal switch, That is why I do not want to change steering columns. It came with a 14 1/2" three spooked steering wheel that I will be changing when converting to an IDIDIT Quick Release Steering Hub once they work out the horn connection (for me) problem.

[t walgamuth]

When I was a kid the starter button for A Studebaker was under the clutch so you normally would depress the clutch to activate the starter. The key on the dash only worked the ignition and other stuff.

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

When I was a kid the starter button was under the clutch so you normally would depress the clutch to activate the starter. The key on the dash only worked the ignition and other stuff.

On my grandpa's truck the starter on the floor was next to the accelerator pedal so you'd push down on the gas and start at the same time. Headlight high beams ere on the left of the clutch.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

When I was a kid the starter button was under the clutch so you normally would depress the clutch to activate the starter. The key on the dash only worked the ignition and other stuff.

Dang, they actually had cars when you were a kid?

[EM-0785]

Supplementing the various posts/photos above on high beam foot switch placement in a Cobra footbox…

If useful for anyone, here’s what I did. Extended height dead pedal with integrated foot switch at the top, above where my foot naturally rests. Very easy foot access when needed, in a tactilely known sight-free position.

Granted still foot operated with a manual transmission, possibly challenging when a car emerges the opposite direction when operating the clutch, as Jim (1795) astutely points out from his experience. Otherwise, this works well for me.

Below are related progress photos from my recent footbox upgrades.

Brent

[xb-60]

Neat solution Brent.
I haven't decided on where to put my switch (I doubt if I can accommodate mine in the normal steering column position), so I'll have to see if I can position it similar to yours

Cheers,
Glen

[cycleguy55]

I'm replacing my steering column (with dimmer switch) with one that has no switch. Replacement is going on the dash, next to the ignition switch. I thought about using a push-button switch and a VW latching relay, but have decided to go with a toggle switch and conventional relay.

[Mongoose930]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

I'm replacing my steering column (with dimmer switch) with one that has no switch. Replacement is going on the dash, next to the ignition switch. I thought about using a push-button switch and a VW latching relay, but have decided to go with a toggle switch and conventional relay.

They make plenty of high current toggle switches so you might be able to skip the relay. This one is rated at 25A and is sealed:

https://www.ckswitches.com/media/2301/pt.pdf

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Mongoose930

They make plenty of high current toggle switches so you might be able to skip the relay. This one is rated at 25A and is sealed:

https://www.ckswitches.com/media/2301/pt.pdf

Going with my current plan:

1. I much prefer using relays rather than switches for higher currents.
2. I already have a set of matching switches, as well as a handful of relays.
3. I can wire the relay to feed both low beam and high beam. One terminal is low beam and another is high beam. The toggle switch merely flips the relay between the two.

[Doublemyv]

I bought a 2019 Backdraft RT4 a year and 2,400 miles ago. Great car, but built to a price point. Things I changed are: New Dreamcar mirrors on each side, and removed the OEM mirror on the driver side. Waaay better vision when backing or changing lanes. I ordered the car with under-car exhaust, and I haven't missed the sidepipes at all. I did change the exhaust tips from turn-down to a straight back tip, so the dust & debris doesn't get blown up into the air while backing. My car has a coyote & tremec TKO 500. Awesome and versatile motor. Terrible transmission. Ultra Shift Oil was a big improvement, retro Hurst handle that looks like original cobra T-reverse forward leaning shift handle provides more leverage, and slightly better shifting. Next mod is the installation of the Pro 5.0 shifter and the Liberty trans modifications to make the TKO shift better. Finally, the OEM master cylinder for the clutch failed @ 2200 miles, and leaked fluid down the inside of the firewall, and is not rebuildable. It apears that the poor pedal pushrod gemoetry put a sideload on the master piston, and wore out the seal. Wilwood .70 master cylinder is now working the internal hydraulic throw out bearing much better. While on that subject, the stock Backdraft pedal assembly for clutch & brake is pretty bad. Looks like a blacksmith made it. It is very simple, but the geometry from the pedal linkage to the pushrod going into the masters is off, and makes a stiff clutch even worse with poor geometry and linkage binding. May have to put a new Tilton pedal assembly in the car to fix this eventually. Little things: I added LED footwell lights & trunk light & backup light. I added a 3/4" piece of heater hose between each seatbelt mounting clevis and the floor mounted eyelets. This eliminated the constant rattling of the seatbelt mounts by keeping a flexible rubber pressure against the belt mounts & eyelets. So, overall I love the car, beautiful, scary fast, and easy to live with day to day. Complaints: Excessive cowl shaking left / right on all roads except the smoothest blacktop. Transmission / Clutch very disappointing. Needs a 3.73 Ring & Pinion at the same time that I disassemble trans for upgrades. Hope this helps someone in their choice. MM

[AC Ventura]

Originally Posted by Doublemyv

Complaints: Excessive cowl shaking left / right on all roads except the smoothest blacktop.

Fit two angled vertical bars that connect the frame behind the dash to the chassis, like the original cars. This stops scuttle shake.

[FredG]

This thread has been a great read. I already owned 2 Vettes. A 61 with 2 - 4 barrels and a 66 with a 427. I wish I still had the both of them. I entertained getting another 427 C2 but never seriously looked into it because it's a 50 year old car. Not into the restomod thing. The Cobra fits my needs perfectly. Sharp looking, built with modern components, simple to work on and a blast to drive. The only thing I would have preferred is a little better rear suspension which is now offered on the newer version. For the record, I didn't buy it because of it's relationship or comparison to the original Cobra's or Ford. As far as I see, other than body style, when I look at the construction of the car, there isn't anything Ford or Cobra in it.

Fred

[Buzz]

But Fred - a Cobra (replica) body with modern drivetrain, suspension and comforts is not that much different in concept from a restomodded classic.
I've often flirted with the idea of buying and restoring a '74 Trans Am - my first car, but I know I'd not be as happy with the overall handling and performance as I was when I was (way) younger. The thought of doing one with a modern chassis, transmission, brakes and suspension is interesting though. The big thing is that the Cobra has completely sold me on having a roadster as my fun car, so cars like the Firebird now have a lot less appeal.