Club Cobra - brake issues ( very little pedel and no air in lines)

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brake issues ( very little pedel and no air in lines)

I replaced the hoses that are in between the master cylinder and the remote container that holds the fluid because of the hose cracking and starting to leak. the problem im having is I have bleed the brakes at the wheels and don't see any air, just fluid do I have to bleed the master cylinder also ? and if so whats the easiest way to do that. Im hoping bleeding the master will be easier than replacing the hoses , due to whoever built my car put the clamps on backwards and that was a ***** to get to them to remove

Yes, bleed the Master Cylinder. While you are at it, you might as well bleed the whole system in this order.
1. Passenger rear
2. Drivers rear
3. Passenger front
4. Drivers front.

Invest in one of these so you can do the bleeding by yourself. It works great.

Fred

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by FredG (Post 1490051)

I prefer speed bleeders / quick bleeders.

I have bleed the whole system that's why I know there is no air in the brake lines. I saw a youtube and showed to install a clear tube from the master back to the remote containers that was mounted on the firewall. problem is I have 3 ( 2 for brakes and 1 for clutch ) and they are under the body and not too easy to get to .

Quote:

Originally Posted by whichonetodrive (Post 1490079)

Bench bleeding the MC can be a PITA, but it does sound like you got air into the MC when the hoses were off. And it seems that the bubble is trapped where it can't be easily pushed out of the MC and on to the calipers. .... If I were determined to avoid bench bleeding the MC I'd consider jacking the front or rear of the car enough to help the bubble move to a place where it could be pushed/pulled out. Of course that means you'll have to move a lot of brake fluid to find out if it worked. That is why bleeding the MC with a short hose taking the fluid right back to the reservoir is usually perferred. But you'll have to decide which approach is less objectionable.

One more thought. If the MC piston is not going all the way to the end of the cylinder, that may be where the air is stuck. So I'd check to see if the brake pedal is pushing the piston all the way in when you are bleeding the system.

It sounds like you have a balance bar system. The MC rods/clevises must be parallel. If they are not the masters will not stroke fully making it seem like you have a bad MC. With the Wilwood set up 1/8", two Quarters, should fit between the brake rod and the clevises.