1-2yrs later, what would you have installed/added
 

Ok, so I found thread related to this topic but the discussion was more about what people would do to their cobra now because they are older. Not quite the information I was looking for.

I'm interested to understand what owners wish they had installed/added when they were building the cobra, or added/installed in a turn-key purchased, but can't add now because of either the cost of retrofitting now that the car is completed, the difficulty to install/add or you just simply can't do it now.

Please provide what you wish you would have installed, the why/benefit and why it is prohibited to do it now compared to when the car was being build?

Thanks,
R. Bobby

Those would be items that make routine, or less than seldom, maintenance tasks easier. For example, with a Jag rear changing out the rear pads can be difficult if your particular car does not have an access door. Changing out the rotors even more so. Likewise, if you have a Turkey Pan and it is not a two-piece removable TP, tuning your carburetor can be a real nuisance depending on what particular carburetor you have. And these cars live and die on their carburetor's performance. With my ERA, and having studied it for twenty years before having it built to my specifications, the only customization that I would have added "from the factory" is a trap door on the tunnel, just like some Jags have, that allow for easy servicing of the front driveshaft u-joint. That's a peculiarity of the ERA cars with the custom outboard braked rears with the integral emergency brake. That would not apply to most other cars. So, to answer your question, most of the answers to your question will not apply unless you choose exactly the same car as the writer, with pretty much the same options, and pretty much the same vintage. The only exception to that is the big block versus small block. I have never heard anyone say "dang, I really wish I'd gone with a small block." Of course this is only true for 427 style cars, not FIAs. A small block in a 427 car is a catastrophic mistake.:cool:

With Unique (great choice, by the way) get the factory installed soft top and tonneau cover. I did it myself and it can be a bit of a challenge to get just right. I had no plans to track my car so I decided not to go with a rear sway bar. I did a lot of research on that one and particularly the Jaguar experts advised me to leave it off. In spirited street driving on very twisty roads, the small amount of extra compliance in the rear gave me a beautiful, supple ride and allowed the IRS to stay planted and really do its stuff. Most people here will disagree with me on that and if you are planning to use your Cobra on the track, the extra stiffness (harshness) in the rear is probably a worthwhile compromise.
Other items - cockpit adjustable brake balance bar, Speedbleeders for the calipers, footbox heat shields and knock-off wheels. Most Unique owners also upgraded to a 16" puller fan on the radiator for extra peace of mind. Are you ordering a turn-key build or a roller/pallet kit?

Great info, I had not considered the maintenance aspect. I'm looking at Unique (ERA is not an option as they are 12-14 to delivery and not really taking new orders) which also as a Jag rear end. Did you Fab a trap door for the breaks and u-joint after the fact, or you just deal with the pain when it comes time to service these parts?

OK first mistake checked-off, I just hope the car will still go with a SB.

I'm looking at a deluxe kit but have not decided yet as I want to try and get my 4th point of contact into the other 2 kit builders I have short listed. For the top, yes I'm tracking this. I'm going to get the snaps? installed before I receive the kit but don't plan to buy the covers just yet.

Without question i would have More Cow Bell...You cant get enough of the cow bell :rolleyes:
Maybe a EFI system rather then Carb....Doing EFI can be involved after the fact, or at least for me.

Ricky Bobby for President 2024

No, I didn't fab up a door. That's actually more trouble than snaking the grease gun adapter up through and to the zerk every couple of thousand miles. Crafting a removable door on the tunnel, and then making the carpeting over it look like it wasn't just sawed out, is higher on the PITA scale.


Oh it'll go. There are small blocks around here that have a hundred more horsepower in them than my FE. But there is more to these cars than just going fast. A period correct big block gives you a look, smell, sound and feel that simply can't be matched by a small block. 99% of the time you will not be going fast and most of the time you won't be going at all. An FE always thrills -- even when it's just sitting there quietly in your garage. And nothing pleases other people more than an FE in a Cobra. There's just no comparison. Really.:cool:

I have my eyes set on the California Governor seat!

What I wished I had on my first FFR- manual steering and an IRS. And more power (~400-415 hp 351 fms small block).
The 3 link rear rode terribly on the street. I do regret never taking it to a track. The brakes were also terrible on my ffr- more suited to mustang weight distribution. It would lock the fronts at the drop of a hat and not stop all that well. I also wanted knockoffs. The 5 lug covers hit the cheeseball meter a bit. That car had beautiful paint and looks to die for. It also made me realize I don't care too much about looks and would rather have a car that drives great.

On my next one I have now (used), it has everything I wanted, minus ABS. The superformance wilwood brakes are fantastic, IRS rides and handles nice (even with 450# springs), the RT upgrades I added are a must. *all* of them with a superformance.

Things I would want- ABS still, but it's way too much trouble to retrofit. I'm pretty happy with these wilwoods as they are. Small block vs big- the big blocks look nice, but I don't envy one. Nor would I take one out of the car if it had one ��
One thing you don't need- a ton of power. 450-500 is just right. My car came with the roush 427r. The SR motor would run a little better down low, and you won't miss the extra 50hp you can only use in 3rd gear and up if you're brave. I'm running Avon tires, which stick well, and 1st and 2nd gear requires a lot of throttle discipline. You can barely get in the secondaries in first.
With the old indy 500 tires it came with- death machine. Unusable power in almost any gear.

I've chased leaks, rebuilt the majority of the rear suspension, and turned most of the bolts on the car. I'm happy with the SPF as a driver and definitely for what I have in it. It's a joy to tinker with.

After seeing Rodney's Kirkham in person, what I'd want, money no object, is that beautiful billet suspension, and ridiculous twin charged big block to look at. I'd leave the body in bare aluminum and polish it to a blinding mirror shine.. And keep my car with an SR and abs to drive and not die in ��

I'm still torn on power steering. For driving on the road I don't need it. For the tight track I've driven on, I wished I had it. An electric rack you can turn on and off at will would be a good compromise. But the RT ball joints have me wishing less for power now.

if you take it down to kit-level, definitely have the kit supplied with body fitted and doors working. You don't want to do that yourself. Even if you take body off again.

As for complete cars, now that my ears ring from nothing, I prefer rear exhaust. I changed that.

Most importantly: To get more fun while driving, ask for a cam that pulls from 800 rpm up. A 1.500 rpm cam is hard work until you get out of town.

You find yourself taking your daughter's 911 with automatic instead.

Don't put in an oil cooler. Because 1 or 2 years later you'll put in a thermostat control or take it out altogether. It makes the engine run too cool. Many topics on this subject too.

Well after 9 months and about 800 miles since completion I want to buy an assortment of sidepipe mufflers. My kit supplied mufflers sound great at idle and wot but living with them on long ( 1 hr plus) road trips requires noise canceling head phones. Wouldnt it be cool if someone had a sidepipe muffler with variable sound levels using electric baffle valves. My ears ring like after a WHO concert when Im at a steady 2200 rpm on the highway withoutear protection for more than 45 minutes. I guess Im getting old :LOL:

You mean like a remus exhaust system? I think I would be interested in a system that you could open and baffles in the side pipe.

There are only three things I would do different.

1. is under car exhaust. It is stunning how loud the side pipes are and seem to get louder as we age.
   
   
2. I think just as important, is EFI with traction control, a flex fuel capability and a mature Mass Air Flow fueling model. I put it on after the fact because I couldn't find what I wanted technology-wise or feature-wise at the time. DIY Automotive solved the problem when they productized the longstanding MegaSquirt Heathkit style EFI into a factory built product with a lifetime warranty. The system I ended up with was their MS3Pro Plug and Play system for an 03/04 SVT Cobra that used all the factory sensors and factory wiring harness with expansion capabilities way in excess of anything I will ever use. Very price competitive too $1349 with everything including tuning software, data logging software, a base tune that gets the car up and running instantly and some neat extra's like wireless Bluetooth communications with error detection and correction.
   
   
3. is power steering. I know wimp / wimp / wimp. I am still finalizing my research but I will almost certainly use an electric power steering solution for simplicity and space considerations.

If you base the importance to me on the number of words I choose to describe them, EFI is clearly #1, power steering is #2 and under car exhaust is #3. In my real world they are so closely grouped it is difficult to set hard and fast rankings or priorities.



Ed

p.s. In the nice to have category is a removable steering wheel. If you haven't seen Patrick's, you need to look at a few of his posts about the ERA solution he has. To say it is 'to die for', is an understatement. It is easily the most elegant and invisible solution I have ever seen!

Many of the things you want to do, especially appearance mods, are like mods to a Mustang or any other car. You do them because you want them, not because they will increase the value of the car, and in some cases will subtract or limit resale potential. I took all my mods off the GT before I sold it because, believe it or not, most people want a stock car, and then they promptly do the very mods I had undone. Go figger. The primary GT caretaker said he has modded/unmodded some cars twice. Good for business I guess. FOR APPEARANCE MODS IT'S VERY IMPORTANT TO RETAIN ORIGINAL "TAKE OFF" PARTS.


In some of the cases (and I strongly agree with the claim about EFI) you're better off doing it at the beginning or simply buying a car with the stuff you want already on it. These are "upgrades" and while they don't increase the value of the car 100% of the cost, it's like a kitchen or bath remodel.

Sal, what's "cow bell" ??

Cheers,
Glen

ps ...I'm Australian. Hence non comprendo :D

To the original question...ie what would I change/add?
My car is not too far off being on the road (after a long....long gestation period) ....but I did quite a bit of research (no doubt I've annoyed / pestered / bored a lot of CC members along the way), but so far, I've not deviated too far at all from the plan I originally settled on :cool:

This is "cow bell" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVsQLlk-T0s