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Oil Pan Petcock
Has anyone used an Oil Pan Petcock? I'd like to try one to make oil changes cleaner and simpler. I don't know the thread pattern on my current drain plug, but might can figure it out by removing it and testing in various nuts with known threads.
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My guess is that an oil pan plug uses pipe threads rather than conventional bolt threads.
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Could be. From my fuzzy recollection, I believe my drain plug has pretty fine threads.
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My Canton Road Race pan is 1/2" -20 NPT. But how often are you changing your oil that you want to put a petcock in there?:confused:
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I use them whenever they fit, on any vehicle. They are very hand. It's easy to put an empty jug under there and connect with a short piece of hose. Much lower risk of spillage.
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https://ezoildrainvalve.com/uploads/...hoes-oil_1.jpg Size chart: https://ezoildrainvalve.com/size-chart.html Also made by Fumoto: https://www.fumotousa.com/var/images...106N-LC-10.jpg https://www.fumotousa.com/all-produc...%5D=139&filter[attribute][418][139]=139&filter[attribute][418][141]=141 |
I’m not sure what kind of pan I have, though it looks like a Canton. Not sure what the frequency of oil changes has to do with it, but a once a year mess when changing oil in my garage without a lift is too much if avoidable.
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Agree, but annual or 18 month oil change is cheap insurance. Since I don’t have a dipstick, other than a bolt in 2 inch mini-dipstick on top of oil pan, it’s tough to get a sample for analysis. A petcock would be helpful. Just got to figure out the thread.
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w-lewis,
Have you given any thought to where the petcock will be mounted? If it replaces a downward facing plug it will reduce your ground clearance. It was surprising to me how rapidly an oil pan drains completely if the plug is sheared off. If it faces the side of the car it would seem to be much safer for driving, although it may leave a bit of old oil in the pan, since that's not the lowest point of the pan. Tom |
I have a piece of plastic that has almost every size hole, and thread, and is designed for just that. You just see what size hole your bolt, or oilpan plug, fits in to and then you line the threads up against sample threads on the plastic and you know. It does both US standard, Metric, pipe, etc. It does not do British Whitworth threads. It cost about ten bucks. It does it the other way for nuts as well. It's easier to use that the little key set that came with all my taps and dies. I bet you can get it off Amazon.
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Would replace the drain plug on the side of pan. It’s on the bottom on the side so it empties well.
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Thanks Patrick. Good idea. Will look for the plastic tool.
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I have two drain plugs (front passenger side & rear side on driver's side, Grade 8(!!!) 1/2" NC), so I'd need a pair of these. Would make quick work of an oil change, though.
Edit: OTOH, a potential downside is some yahoo who knows how these things work reaching in and opening it up when you're not looking. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...&dl=1644372293 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...&dl=1644372293 Full gallery: Club Cobra - cycleguy55's Album: Armando's Racing OIl Pan - Ford 460 |
I took the drain plug to a hardware store, trying several standard nuts and sure enough, it's a fairly standard 1/2"-20 thread. Ordered the EZ Oil Drain valve through Amazon. Thanks to all for input.
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You end up loosing the magnetic drain plug when you make this change.
Blas |
You’re right about losing the magnet. Hopefully, oil analysis will alert any issues.
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The JCW magnet, even a small one on the oil filter is a good idea!
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I still have my xRay glasses and wear them on a regular basis. :)
Warsharski was another big mail order parts seller, but I don't think they had the xRay glasses or the uber trick secret decoder ring. |
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